Hi,
I am about to start assembling the Dundas Dm59 kit of the Ffestiniog brake end coach. Obviously on the insides of the coach sides are the raised bits to which the floor is to be glued, but does the floor abut them or rest on top of them, please? If anyone could confirm I would be grateful.
Many thanks,
Kevin
As I've not put one of these kits together I cannot comment, all I can suggest is to take some gentle painters tape and assemble the kit and see the fit. Perhaps you have already tried this pre-assembly method.
Robin.
I hadn't thought of that, thank you, Robin.
Best wishes, Kevin
I would think that the floor rests on top of the raised lines on the sides. To check this, fit one end to one side, temporarily with a strip of sellotape if you like, then try lining up the floor piece on the top of the raised line of the side and butted up against the end, this should give you a steer as to it looking like a perfect fit when the other side and end are fitted.
Alternatively, fit all four pieces of the body sides and ends together and you have a hollow, topless and bottomless box. Drop the floor piece in from the top and if it fits naturally on the raised side pieces and butts up against the ends, then that's your query solved!
I should add that I am not familiar with this kit, just suggesting based on how other similar rolling stock kits fit together.
If you want confirmation from the horses mouth, then phone Dundas up and ask - Andrew Hastie, the proprietor is very friendly and helpful.
Mick
Yes, as Mick says, most will have the floor on top of the ledge as would be the case with an open wagon (so the ledge is hidden).
I think the order of gluing sides and floor can depend on the nature of the corners of the sides. Where there are instructions, occasionally another order is better, or some people may find it so. It can depend on how accurate the moulding is or possibly even shrinkage may play a part.
If the ends fit between the sides or vice versa (the thickness of the moulding representing a corner post or angle iron, it may be best to glue the floor to the ends or sides first (which ever results in a flush edge).
Where the sides are mitred it might be better to glue adjacent sides together first (to give two Ls) and then the two Ls together and drop the floor in (hopefully). If it is slightly over sized it can be filed down either during a trial fit of the two Ls or after.
If it needs any more than a slight touch with a file then that should be a warning that perhaps one has the assembly order wrong. Also, some models have noticeable 'relief' (if that is the right word, i.e. the opposite of undercut) so the moulding pops out of the mould easily. (I didn't notice it for years.) It may be that the solvent cement will even this up causing the excess to flow slightly (if on the inside) or the edge may benefit from squaring up (if visible).
Something it took me years to do or rather not to do is flood the whole joint with solvent but rather just tack a joint first. Doing so in the middle of join hopefully means the ends are still relatively free and there is a little 'spring' in them that aids fitting sub-assemblies together. If the joint has to be opened again it is a lot easier. Sometimes a little more solvent will loosen the joint without pulling away shreds of plastic. It also means that running solvent along the joint can be done while the model is assembled ad holding itself together and fingers are well out of the way. Solvent has a knack of finding any gap and fingers have a habit of attracting it, leaving finger prints.
(Sorry - this turned into a longer ramble than intended!)
Don't apologise, Graeme, they are all really helpful tips.
Thank you,
Kevin