What connectors do people use to link modules in exhibition style layouts?
I'm planning a layout based on Stuart Hughes excellent Norfolk Heath modules but want to build it in such a way that it could be fairly easily broken into several parts if required in the future. Hence the need to consider electrical connections between the various sections. They would not be disconnected often so I suppose would need to be robust and long lasting?
I guess simple choc block would be easiest and cheapest, but I would like something a bit more elegant shall we say.
Any thoughts anyone? 8)
It all depends on how complex your layout wiring is, I try to keep my interboard wiring to a minimum and used Automotive connectors. Available in various sizes up to 8 way.
(https://i.ibb.co/R7jDyCC/plug.jpg) (https://ibb.co/wYczsKK)
I've used some of the multi-way D connectors, usually 25 way, on my exhibition layouts. But then without using a common return and having electromagnets for uncoupling I suspect my wiring is overly complex ending up with needing to make 53 connections between the control panel and layout (two sets of 25 way connectors using the shrouds in addition to the pins and the extra one using a single pin plug & socket!)
Initially I soldered the wires at the board joints to a loose plug and socket (one half on each board) but would occasionally get issues with wires coming adrift from the back of the fittings - which was very difficult to fix under exhibition conditions! - mainly from a combination of flexing to make the connections and (I suspect) also being caught and pulled in the loading and unloading of the boards from house to car to venue and back again.
These were largely solved by fixing the loose plug & socket to the baseboard framework (in such a way to avoid any hanging wires below the framing) and using pre-made 'jumper cables' to electrically link everything up once the boards were erected and physically joined.
These types of connector come in a number of sizes (not sure of the smallest but I've got a set of 50-way jobs somewhere!) but being quite fine can be a bit of a bugger to wire up. As a useful pointer I've found that soldering was easier with the plug and socket linked together as should the plastic chassis soften due to the heat of the iron on one half it is held in alignment by the other half - and keeping the pins aligned in these is key to reliable operation.
If you didn't need as many connections (or wanted something a bit less fiddly) then you could always try DIN plugs that come in a variety of numbers of connections, but again I've got on better with soldering the wires into them with the plug & socket linked. It's also worth noting that a 6-pin DIN plug is the most popular way of linking a handheld controller to a layout, so it may be worth making sure that the type of plug used for that is different to the one used to link the boards to avoid someone plugging the wrong things in the wrong place.
This is probably the simplest way to do it:
https://cpc.farnell.com/camdenboss/ctsn433-12mf/10a-terminal-strip/dp/CN00144?st=terminal%20blocks
It is a set of screw connecting blocks that plug into each other. This is a biggish one at 10 A but probably fairly robust; there are other sizes.
You can leave them hanging on the cable or fasten them to the boards if they can be positioned to fit together.
Probably not everyone's choice, but the two halves of my layout only come together electrically in the (separate) control box. This does mean I can operate one half at a time (but run the risk of trains dropping off the unprotected track ends, of course). I use those sub-D connectors.
Julian
I sincerely hope I don't end up with that many connections!. A ten way would be sufficient I think, and at least they can be locked together.
Not sure about the automotive connectors Diane, although they look secure. Can you actually tell me where they prewired ones came from though?
Frank your solution seems easiest although I would prefer soldered or crimped.
Thanks all for the suggestions anyway, gives me food for thought.
Crimped connectors is certainly a way to go if you are set up to make them. I prefer them over soldered connectors on the proviso that it is possible to remove a pin or receptacle from the shell should the need arise.
Quote from: Tim Parsonson on January 23, 2021, 16:20
Not sure about the automotive connectors Diane, although they look secure. Can you actually tell me where they prewired ones came from though?
The pre wired connectors came from eBay https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Tyco-AMP-Electrical-Waterproof-Connector-Kit-1-2-3-4-5-6-Pin-Way-Super-seal-Car/231993136001?hash=item3603de5381:g:sFYAAOSwjVVVluWK (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Tyco-AMP-Electrical-Waterproof-Connector-Kit-1-2-3-4-5-6-Pin-Way-Super-seal-Car/231993136001?hash=item3603de5381:g:sFYAAOSwjVVVluWK)
You could always use a D connector lead. Like this one:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/271645230799
You can just cut the lead mid way then strip the ends and solder them to each part of the layout where required.
All you then need to do is plug the two parts together across the board joint!
The gold plated contacts should last a long time.
If you are worried about the current in the thin wires, just joint two together. (But I have never had a problem.)
It is a very simple and cost effective way to connect base boards together and you do not have to solder or crimp the connectors.