"Oh Lord, not another one?"
Yes, you may very well cry that. However, that forms the basis for my first ever kit bash (having been in this hobby for years, and not attempting any challenge of this sort!)...
The story begins in December 2020. Having obtained a Knightwing kit and a Kato 109 chassis among many other items (see the Fablewood thread soon), and finding some conveniently handy 0.5mm (or thereabouts) plasticard at home, I formulated a plan to turn the kit into a small, basic four wheeled shunter type locomotive.
Just after Christmas, a start was made on making the body to fit right over the chassis. About half of the main body was cut off (leaving the four front side grilles and the front), and glued to the cab. The running plate was made out of the plasticard, carefully measured and cut to requirement including a hole for the chassis to fit underneath.
This was the result to start with (apologies are offered in advance for the slightly poor quality of the majority of the pictures; due to problems with my laptop, normal photography with my camera was not quite possible, so the Iphone kindly stood in):
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50832500841_e54ffe1677_c.jpg)
Next, there were buffer beams to be made and glued on. Meantime, other details were added including the fitting of headlights, handrails on the body sides, wire handrails fashioned and glued to the cab sides, a horn on the right hand side of the loco, rear lights fitted at the back of the cab, and an exhaust pipe created by modifying one of the 'standard gauge' axles.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50832629907_785323379a_c.jpg)
With the body in satisfactory order, attention turned to developing the framework. Sideplates were fitted, front steps created with plasticard and a chopped matchstick, and a few random components of the kit being utilised and incorporated into the model. These included the rear steps, brake cylinder and battery box. Brake pipes from another kit found their way onto the framework.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50832629837_6bb496ae56_c.jpg)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50832544316_272158fa85_c.jpg)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50832629652_7591e621b5_c.jpg)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50831800323_256a044d59_c.jpg)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50832629422_c6733c3685_c.jpg)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50832543876_4b9e0544d5_c.jpg)
Another feature was the addition of a false floor, and the control panel from the kit. The latter was modified to bring it in line with the cab, as close as possible. With nearly all the parts in place, it was off the paint shop for their coat of dark grey primer, followed by white for the headlights, cab interior and control panel, as well as yellow for the rear of the cab and the front bonnet.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50832629242_eff4fa64f8_c.jpg)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50832629157_969d623a16_c.jpg)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50832543506_d81376eee1_c.jpg)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50831799653_aec079df1d_c.jpg)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50832543256_f2ca7379cb_c.jpg)
It was decided at the painting stages, to make the loco a companion to my Vale of Rheidol style 2-6-2 tank engine. Thus I decided to put the loco in BR Blue (1968-1985), with the buffer beams in red.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50831799428_9355ede93d_c.jpg)
By way of additional detail to the cab interior, a seated driver from Bachmann was found. Sitting in the seat incorporated from the kit, he is to be found firmly at the controls...
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50832543076_6213999521_c.jpg)
Next came the process of adding liquid lead to the underside of the body, to enable it to weigh down on the chassis. Some lead was glued under the roof of the cab, but made such a mess of the windows that they all had to be replaced. After that, came the addition of BR 'double arrow' logos in 4mm, courtesy of Fox Transfers.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50832628502_c10f029b52_c.jpg)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50832542901_840a9eac9e_c.jpg)
At this point (14/01/2021), the body is virtually complete with the addition of 'Penrhyn Quarry' style buffers from RT Models. The chassis is yet to be tested before being glued underneath the body, but as the ads once said:
"We're getting there."
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50831803413_2f61b5d419_c.jpg)
Not too bad for my first time with this kit bashing lark, but I'll let you lot be the judge. Comments welcome as always.
Very nicely, done. it has me considering ordering a Kato 109 chassis.
Jeff S.
Quote from: Jeff Schumaker on January 14, 2021, 15:24
Very nicely, done. it has me considering ordering a Kato 109 chassis.
Jeff S.
Thank you Jeff. A lot of lessons along the way to learn from, but not bad considering this is my first time at tackling a kit bash.
David,
Please do consider writing this up so it can be submitted for publication in 009 News. For me it is exactly the kind of thing that will encourage people to have a go themselves and discover skills they did not know they had.
Julian
Quote from: Julian Evison on January 14, 2021, 17:04
David,
Please do consider writing this up so it can be submitted for publication in 009 News. For me it is exactly the kind of thing that will encourage people to have a go themselves and discover skills they did not know they had.
Julian
An article will most certainly be on the cards; just formulating one as we speak... Thanks for commenting!
For a first attempt its very,very good. I like it.
Robin.
Quote from: Robin Webster on January 14, 2021, 18:58
For a first attempt its very,very good. I like it.
Robin.
Thank you kindly Robin!
No problems about a Knightwing Kitbash, and very well done on two counts (one for trying in the first place, and another for the finished loco!).
Just out of interest what did you use to stick the lead mist shot in with, David?
The reason for asking is that I know from experience that using thinned PVA is bad news in the long term, as when the PVA cures it releases small amounts of acetic acid (vinegar) which in itself isn't dangerous but it can react with the lead causing it to swell (as Lead Acetate is formed), and eventually split any sealed box (locomotive side tanks or boiler for example).
If you did use PVA then I suspect that the stuff you have stuck to the underside of the cab roof and bonnet should be OK, but I'd be a bit concerned about the stuff under the cab floor as this doesn't seem to have anywhere to expand into, especially with the body in place.
If you didn't use PVA, or it's not lead shot, then no need to worry. Equally the process tends to be a slow one - years rather than days - so if you did then there's no need to panic, just keep an eye out for it (and perhaps use a different adhesive next time).
This looks good, I must get on and finish my Kightwing diesel. It has been sitting unfinished for some time now.
On the subject of lead I have always found that solid lead cut flattened and shaped gives more weight than lead shot in the same available space in a loco.
I fix this in place with super-glue and have not had any issues with the lead expanding over the years.
Obviously, I take precautions when handling lead.
Quote from: JulienW on January 15, 2021, 09:36
No problems about a Knightwing Kitbash, and very well done on two counts (one for trying in the first place, and another for the finished loco!).
Just out of interest what did you use to stick the lead mist shot in with, David?
The reason for asking is that I know from experience that using thinned PVA is bad news in the long term, as when the PVA cures it releases small amounts of acetic acid (vinegar) which in itself isn't dangerous but it can react with the lead causing it to swell (as Lead Acetate is formed), and eventually split any sealed box (locomotive side tanks or boiler for example).
If you did use PVA then I suspect that the stuff you have stuck to the underside of the cab roof and bonnet should be OK, but I'd be a bit concerned about the stuff under the cab floor as this doesn't seem to have anywhere to expand into, especially with the body in place.
If you didn't use PVA, or it's not lead shot, then no need to worry. Equally the process tends to be a slow one - years rather than days - so if you did then there's no need to panic, just keep an eye out for it (and perhaps use a different adhesive next time).
Thanks Julien. I used ordinary superglue for the liquid lead. Next time, I'll just stick to the underside of the body rather than the cab roof; I only thought of it as giving extra weight...
Quote from: B.Meldon on January 15, 2021, 10:29
This looks good, I must get on and finish my Kightwing diesel. It has been sitting unfinished for some time now.
On the subject of lead I have always found that solid lead cut flattened and shaped gives more weight than lead shot in the same available space in a loco.
I fix this in place with super-glue and have not had any issues with the lead expanding over the years.
Obviously, I take precautions when handling lead.
Thanks Brian.
Quote from: David Hennessey on January 15, 2021, 11:27
Thanks Julien. I used ordinary superglue for the liquid lead. Next time, I'll just stick to the underside of the body rather than the cab roof; I only thought of it as giving extra weight...
Superglue shouldn't cause any problems with lead shot expanding, as I haven't experienced any issue when using it with lead sheet (aquarium plant weights / old roofing lead).
Trying to concentrate the weight lower down for narrow gauge models helps, but sometimes we can only put it where there is space and some weight higher up is better than no weight at all.
Quote from: JulienW on January 15, 2021, 09:36
No problems about a Knightwing Kitbash, and very well done on two counts (one for trying in the first place, and another for the finished loco!).
Just out of interest what did you use to stick the lead mist shot in with, David?
The reason for asking is that I know from experience that using thinned PVA is bad news in the long term, as when the PVA cures it releases small amounts of acetic acid (vinegar) which in itself isn't dangerous but it can react with the lead causing it to swell (as Lead Acetate is formed), and eventually split any sealed box (locomotive side tanks or boiler for example).
If you did use PVA then I suspect that the stuff you have stuck to the underside of the cab roof and bonnet should be OK, but I'd be a bit concerned about the stuff under the cab floor as this doesn't seem to have anywhere to expand into, especially with the body in place.
If you didn't use PVA, or it's not lead shot, then no need to worry. Equally the process tends to be a slow one - years rather than days - so if you did then there's no need to panic, just keep an eye out for it (and perhaps use a different adhesive next time).
If Liquid Gravity is being used, I believe it is steel shot, not lead. The contents of the bottle I have has turned a nice rusty color. I've also used a magnet to pick up stray pieces from my work table.
Jeff S.
Quote from: Jeff Schumaker on January 16, 2021, 14:34
Quote from: JulienW on January 15, 2021, 09:36
No problems about a Knightwing Kitbash, and very well done on two counts (one for trying in the first place, and another for the finished loco!).
Just out of interest what did you use to stick the lead mist shot in with, David?
The reason for asking is that I know from experience that using thinned PVA is bad news in the long term, as when the PVA cures it releases small amounts of acetic acid (vinegar) which in itself isn't dangerous but it can react with the lead causing it to swell (as Lead Acetate is formed), and eventually split any sealed box (locomotive side tanks or boiler for example).
If you did use PVA then I suspect that the stuff you have stuck to the underside of the cab roof and bonnet should be OK, but I'd be a bit concerned about the stuff under the cab floor as this doesn't seem to have anywhere to expand into, especially with the body in place.
If you didn't use PVA, or it's not lead shot, then no need to worry. Equally the process tends to be a slow one - years rather than days - so if you did then there's no need to panic, just keep an eye out for it (and perhaps use a different adhesive next time).
If Liquid Gravity is being used, I believe it is steel shot, not lead. The contents of the bottle I have has turned a nice rusty color. I've also used a magnet to pick up stray pieces from my work table.
Jeff S.
I've found the correct term for it... Fluid lead (which is exactly what I used).
Quote from: Jeff Schumaker on January 16, 2021, 14:34
If Liquid Gravity is being used, I believe it is steel shot, not lead. The contents of the bottle I have has turned a nice rusty color. I've also used a magnet to pick up stray pieces from my work table.
Jeff S.
I have a feeling that they changed from lead to steel to get round the lead acetate expansion issue. Equally somebody on NGRM-online advocated nickel plated lead shot (apparently this is a commercial product) and I have a large pot of granular tungsten so there are plenty of options if you want to use PVA and avoid swelling, though equally other adhesives that don't react with lead are available.
Quote from: David Hennessey on January 16, 2021, 15:57
I've found the correct term for it... Fluid lead (which is exactly what I used).
I acquired the bottle of lead I have from a laboratory I worked at that was closing down (the granular tungsten came from the same source) and is labelled 'mist shot' (I assume similar stuff goes into shotgun cartridges) but it looks exactly the same as the Fluid lead I've seen on sale at shows (remember them?).
Ultimately as long as one knows what the ballast is made from then one can pick the adhesive to avoid issues.
Equally this is drifting somewhat from David's rather nice loco... ::)
A short video, showing the finished product in action (light engine, and on loaded trials): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hyStgsQ1EQw (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hyStgsQ1EQw)
The kato 109 chassis are very good and we still have plenty of chassis in the group sales, David.
Stan.
Quote from: Stan Williams on February 09, 2021, 17:22
The kato 109 chassis are very good and we still have plenty of chassis in the group sales, David.
I agree they are great however this hasn't happened to me yet, but I have read twice now (in the other place) that if you overload them with a heavy loco and the too much rolling stock the gearbox can jump.
The problem with the Kato 11-109 have happened when it was used under a Peco whitemetal GVT tram loco kit, which is very heavy. It woud be hard to weight up a 3D print, plasticard or brass loco to the same extent. The message here is, don't overdo the weight, but under normal circumstances it seems to be a very fine chassis.
Julian