Following an article in the 009 mag last year, I decided to try installing the Peco Twistlock motor for one Peco electro frog point to see how it would go. I tried surface mounting it by hiding it under a hillside but struggled with the link rod working so cut out a hole in my foam baseboard and used the template provided and got it working but I have noticed two problems which I would value any advice on:
1. If the point is switched a few times in quick succession all is fine but done 7 or more (just when I've been testing connections), it will give off a buzzing noise and stop working. However, when I come back a while later, it is ok again. Does the motor have a form of cut off if through a succession of rapid point switches it is in effect having continuous use even for 10-15 seconds?
2. I tried using a Micro switch but found when the point was used it shorted the circuit so I will have to investigate wiring and if switch may be faulty. In meantime, I put insulating fishplates on both rails and the problem has stopped. However, when I switch the point, you notice a slight interruption to the power supply to the engine travelling round the circuit. It doesn't stop and a casual observer probably wouldn't notice but as this point problem has been a focus in recent weeks, I do! Can anyone advise is this minor interruption to supply to be expected as I've never noticed it when switching my manually operated points.
Many thanks for reading.
1. Send Peco Technical Advice an email (it's address is on their website) and ask them. It sounds logical, after all why would you do 7 changes in quick succession other than to try to break the thing. In reality you may do a couple if you got the point setting wrong, but that would be it. If you are testing to destruction you'd do as it's used, with gaps between each change, not continuous. Could be that it just overheated and then cooled down, though!
2. Sounds like a wire's wrong or that the switch wasn't working properly. The Twistlock has a switch that you can add to it (or come with one), are you using Peco's switch meant for the Twistlock or something else?
The power interruption sounds like the power source for the 16v is taking power from the transformer momentarily and so causing the hiccup on the power to the loco. So obvious question, what are you using to control the train and power the point motor?
I have a couple on order, so I can "play" with them before installation.
Thanks for feedback.
I'll see if Peco can confirm that the buzzing etc are not signs of any fault with the motor.
I am using a Gaugemaster controller, 12v output for track and the 16v output for point. I could use another controller for point to see if this eradicates drop in power supply to track, even though it is only for a second or less!
Just did a check with a multimeter on the track and there is a dip in volts when I flick the point switch.
How are you powering the point motor(s)?
Hugh, he said in that last post, GM controller, 12vDc to control locos and 16vAC for points. I've done it that way and haven't had the issues he's had, though with the older PL-10 motors.
Hello Hugh and Blair
Took wires out of Gaugemaster controller for point and switched it to a Hornby one, checked Peco instructions again and realised careless error....it needs 16v supply and I was running it on 12v. All well when I used this one. I can now connect it the the 16v output from the Gaugemaster.
thanks for help! 👍🚂🚂🚂
Quote from: Hobby on January 11, 2021, 10:07
Hugh, he said in that last post, GM controller, 12vDc to control locos and 16vAC for points. I've done it that way and haven't had the issues he's had, though with the older PL-10 motors.
I was wondering whether it was passing contacts, those little studs and a conducting "pencil", or a CDU.
Anyway, it's sorted now...
If your layout is a full circuit then you will need to place isolating fishplate on frog, or it will short circuit.
Also, if your point goes into a loop again you will need an isolating fishplate somewhere on each of the rails joining the frogs on the two points together.
Regarding the microswitch in your photo above, assuming the microswitch is on the same side of point and the same way up as when you had it fitted:
The grey wire from the frog should be on the contact closest to the small press button, (lower one in the photo.)
The white wire should go on the normally open central terminal on the switch.
The orange wire should go on the normally closed top terminal on the switch.
You have to adjust the microswitch, so it changes over when the point blades are in the middle and not touching either rail.
Once wired up the microswitch must work with the point or you will get a short.
One final item, it is a bit late now, but I have always found that a nice solid ΒΌ inch (6mm) plywood track bed is by far the best way to go so that everything can easily be fixed down with screws etc. Soft track bed material is easy to make but not at all easy to fix anything to.
Thanks Brian
Putting the microswitch back on is the next project so I will follow your advice regarding the wiring.
The foam base has its benefits for cutting scenery back for rivers etc but it can have its drawbacks in this case!
I haven't been able to run trains for a few weeks between these problems and clearing up after applying static grass so hopefully normal service will return this week! 😉🚂🚂
Best wishes Peter