Hello.
I have a Bachmann Baldwin Class 10-12-D, Bridget, and I am very pleased with it so would like to get another similar loco.
Can anyone tell me if it would be OK to double head a train on DC and any idea how to couple the 2 locos?
To answer those in order:
As long as the motor in each loco has been installed correctly so that both run in the same direction with the same current then the locos can be run together. The problem might be that the speed of a motor for a given current is somewhat dependent on the number of coils of in the motors armature, and with mass production methods this can vary as a specification might be something like 10,000 + or - 500 (or 5%) meaning that with a pair of locos one could be at 10,500 with the other at 9,500. Both would be within the specification but one will be faster than the other. You will also get similar variation when it comes to the running gear due to where clearances are within the tolerances set by Bachmann, somtaking all this into account it will be very difficult to get two locos that will run at exactly the same speed for the same controller setting. They shouldn't be massively different, but you may find that the faster one is better being the rear loco so the slower 'pilot' can hold it back somewhat.
Another consideration is how you will put the two locos together. The easy option is to use the 'hand of God' and place them together (& couple them up - I'll come to that in a bit), and use the same technique to separate them. If you wanted to go 'hands free' then you'll need to set up short (one loco long) isolating sections in the right place so that you can 'switch off' one loco and run the second up to (to couple up) or away from (to uncouple) the first.
Of course this is a lot easier to do using DCC!
As to couplings (I said I'd get to that!) I've just had a look at one of my 3 Baldwins and it looks like Bachmann have used the NEM pocket system. If that is the case then it should be possible to unclip the Bachmann coupling from its pocket and replace it with one of the Peco ones, or if you wanted something a little finer (and also something that can accommodate hands-free uncoupling) then one of the Greenwich couplings (CPL 3) will also fit into the pocket (but will need assembly first).
Hopefully that will help...
Hi Julien, thanks for very detailed reply and for taking the time.
I will keep in mind your advice to put the faster loco behind the slower.
Just had a look at coupling and compared it to peco one, you are correct.
Thanks again.
Given a reasonable degree of speed matching between the two locos for the controller setting they should compensate for one another to an extent. The loco that is running faster will be pulling harder so will tend to slow down because of the extra load, and the one that is running a bit slow will tend to speed up because it is less heavily loaded.
If the controller is a feedback type, then it may not be quite so straightforward.
In the (unlikely!) event they are to be permanently run together it's always worth considering coupling them electrically as well. I suspect it's unlikely in this case but on bogie locos where two independent power bogies are used it's always worth doing.
With regard to double-heading, I think you could just be pragmatic and try it!
I don't do it on my layout, but have been co-pilot on friends' layouts at exhibitions where they have done it without problems.
It can look a bit odd if there is a big speed mis-match but on the whole it seems to be OK
Many thanks to all members who replied.
What's the minimum radius these locos will negotiate at slow speed? Would love one but my initial 'getting back into modelling' layout has a 7" curve on it....
I suspect that it will struggle with 7" radius (45 feet or 15 yards full size) curves, especially as because of the way the chassis is designed - instead of the front 4-wheel bogie of the prototype the model has a 2-wheel pony truck at the front and the other carrying wheel is attached to the main chassis block in front of the 6 coupled wheels - it has a surprisingly long wheelbase.
The other issue is that whilst the loco might get round a 7" curve I suspect that the overhang front and rear where the couplings are will make pulling or pushing any stock difficult if not impossible.
The open cab Baldwins will go round 7inch curves on Woody Lane but the cabbed versions won't due to bridge restrictions.
That very useful Steve - looks like the chassis will co around the bend (so to speak) but it's the overhang that is likely to cause problems...
I have just bought the Bachmann WHR Baldwin with DCC sound. It is a beautiful model of miniaturisation.
https://youtu.be/FBiUCi-EbJg (https://youtu.be/FBiUCi-EbJg)
Yes indeed. I saw them on display on the Bachmann stand at Model Rail Scotland in February. There truely is "light under the boiler". It was far from clear how the motor drove the wheels, but I thought I could see a slim vertical shaft.
A bit delayed reply, but Tim Couling, of Clyre Valley Railway fame, runs banker locos, using nominally identical chassis', and has no problem with the rear one pushing wagons off the track or holding back the train so it derails, so, as hughn says try it, you have nothing to lose. I would be more wary of two entirely different mechanisms!