I have a couple of Hunslet's with white metal domes, Linda and Gwynedd. I have tried paint but nothing looks as good as brass. Does anyone know of a supplier of brass domes?
Crome effect gold spray paint is available.
You can use this to spray the white metal domes etc.
The effect is very good and will give you the polished brass look that you need.
Also unlike actual brass it will not tarnish with time.
Brian Meldon
Dear Brian,
I have used this, and my results weren't exciting. I suspect that's down to what your expectations are? I got a smooth finish, but not the high-gloss finish you get with Brasso on brass.
The only supplier for brass domes I know is Weinert, but these are German ones, different shape as they have torispherical tops, not half round; and they are pricey. As they are lost-wax castings you probably can file them to shape.
My I suggest a slightly different approach? Brass tube with a fancy brass adornment nail, a brass rivet, brass nail, or a brass(ed) paper tag (envelope clips) for the top.
Checking in the bay of 2nd hand you can get 'Raw Finish Solid Brass Ball Finial Approx 10mm Diameter M5 Thread', and these have ball-shaped tips: 'Small/Large BRASS CURTAIN TIE BACK HOOK WITH SCREWS Tassel/Rope/Cord Holder'.
Other search terms:
Belt Screw Brass Solid Rivets Stud Head Leather Nail Wallet Globular Stud
Monk Head Screws Leather Craft Belt Wallet Solid Brass Nail Rivets New
Round Antique Brass Rivets Rapid Studs
BRASS CURTAIN TIE BACK HOOK WITH SCREWS
brass nails
brass upholstery nails
Last, not least, are brass doweling pins a suitable starting point, if you don't fancy filling a piece of brass rod to shape?
Waldschrat
I think the trick with the chrome finish spray is to get the surface of the dome smooth.
Then use a grey primer and if necessary re-smooth that and add another coat of primer.
Only when the surface is smooth should the chrome finish spray be applied.
I have also had variable results with this, but with some trial and error a very good finish is possible.
The problem with using brass is that the shine tarnishes with time and applying polish is not at all easy on a model, especially if the paint is satin or matt finish. (Gloss paint on models just looks wrong to me.)
Brian Meldon
A slightly off the wall suggestion would be to have the white metal domes gold plated (electroplating). I've not done this myself but have been given a couple of domes where the previous owner did this. Whoever does the job* will probably give you some funny looks but the colour is just about right and being gold there will be no issues with tarnishing, though a coat of satin (or even Matt) varnish may be in order to reduce the 'bling' factor.
As an alternative to electroplating you could try gilding - applying a layer of metallic leaf. I'd imagine that would be quite a skilled job but the metallic leaf does not have to be (24carrat) gold as other alloys ('Dutch metal' for example) would also give a yellow metal finish (it may even be possible to get 'brass leaf').
* Your local jewellers may be able to help, also a local plating shop if you have such a thing. Living in Birmingham I've got ready access to the Jewellery Quarter and all the little back street operations there, but you could try an internet search as they would probably do things by post.
Anyone you know with a lathe and utilising brass screws.
I was fortunate some years ago and a guy (sadly no longer with us ) turned them up for me.
They still look good today on the Penrhyn locos in 009.
Stan.
For many years I have used Pilot permanent marker pens used with classroom overhead projectors (OHP). Their gold marker, very fine tip (1mm) is ideal for a brass finish on domes. It takes a bit of practice to get it on right, but is an economical approach and gives a very good result.
Press the tip onto the dome to get the ink/fluid running and then carefully "float" it on. Do not touch it, it will dry green where you did and you'll have to do it all again! Put it to one side to dry thoroughly for 24 hours and then give it a thin coat of clear varnish to preserve it. I have never bothered to varnish my own loco domes and let it gently and naturally weather to a well used finish. After a couple of years it dulls a bit and it is then simply a case of giving it a new layer, as it is very thin, I haven't experienced any problems with adding new layers after 25 years of touching up every couple or so.
My Pilot pens are quite old and were originally obtained from Hobbycraft, so not sure if they are easily available nowadays. I have "discovered" a German firm called Molotow who do a very good indeed liquid chrome pen which is applied in the same way as described above and works wonders in putting a very convincing chrome finish to the standard silver painted bumpers etc on 1950's/60's Oxford diecast cars. They come in several tip thicknesses, I use the 1mm one and the pen costs around
Brian, of course brass will tarnish, i.e. a coat of clear metal varnish is required, unless you fancy a regular polish with Brasso.
Of course, a lathe job would be best, but I worked on the assumption that that's not an option.
Yes, you get gold leaf for arts and crafts purposes, and as I do calligraphy I've seen it done. You need to prepare the surface for the gold to stick with a sort of glue, and you need special tools (which aren't cheap) for burnishing to get the sheen. Even though gold is the one metal that doesn't tarnish you still want to varnish to protect the gold from rubbing off.
I would suggest even gold-plating is easier, but why not brass-plate? There is a variety of instructions available on the internet, including youtube footage.
Just some thoughts
Waldschrat
If you can find them, the round pins from old 10/15amp plugs are a good starting point...
David.
I never thought that a simple question would result in such an interesting discussion!
Just after posting I mentioned the post to our local Methodist minister and he has offered to turn one up for me so great result. Thanks for the many other ideas.
You can purchase brass domes from Alan Gibson,they have a web site and from London road models. Best approach is to visit the EM gauge society or P4 society shows taking with you a picture of the dome. Then go through their stock items till you find the best match to your locomotive.
These suppliers usually have a stand at these exhibitions.
Alan Gee
To be honest I've found that most 4 mm standard gauge items are a bit big for the average 009 loco (2' to 2'6" gauge) but if you can access them then 3 mm scale items can be quite useful.