Somewhere here in the forum the question was asked how to join rails with different heights. My preferred method is to cut the higher rail down to its foot for to 5 mm length and solder the other rail on top. That way I can ensure perfect alignment of the (inner) running edge of the rail head.
However, if that's too much hassle, here are the solutions currently on the market:
Micro Engineering offer the widest choice of transition rail joiners. Note that these are p l a s t i c:
26-006 G Transition, Code 332 to 250 (4 pair) $ 6.55
26-007 G Transition, Code 250 to 205 (4 pair) 6.55
26-001 Transition, Code 100 to 83 (4 pair) 4.25
26-002 Transition, Code 100 to 70 (4 pair) 4.25
26-003 Transition, Code 83 to 70 (4 pair) 4.25
26-004 Transition, Code 80 to 55 (4 pair) 4.25
26-005 Transition, Code 70 to 55 (4 pair) 4.25
see:http://www.microengineering.com/products_ta.htm (http://www.microengineering.com/products_ta.htm)
Amongst other products they produce one of the best ranges of bridges and trestles, highly detailed, very prototypical, i.e. structurally accurate, including 'bridge rail' (heavier rail, tighter sleeper spacing), which is where the transition rail joiners are needed.
For metal transition rail joiners the options are more limited:
Atlas Model Railroad Co. No551 Transition Rail Joiners Code 83 to Code 100
Peco PCO-SL112 Transition Joiner Code 75-100
Peco PCO-SL113 Peco Transition track Code 75-100
Cheers
Waldschrat
I have found that not using any fishplate at the joint between two different rail sections can also be a successful option.
I just raise the level of the smaller rail section over a couple of inches (about 10 cm) with card and even paper packing between the plastic track web and the
Dear Brian,
Brave I would call your option, I wouldn't dare to butt rails with such a 'flying' length. Good to know I'm overly cautious; I'm a coward, I would have placed both ends on sleepers side-by-side.
Thanks for that, clearly I need to adjust my level of faith... ;D
Cheers
Stefan