I'm having trouble with the chassis, it has been modified as per the instructions (it is a bachmann dock shunter by the way) it runs fine with no load on it but as soon as the body is put on it jumps out of mesh, it seems with the modification to the motor mount there is little or nothing to hold it in place any ideas to solve this would be most welcome and if anyone out there has had the same problem how they got round it
Thanks All
Ian Holmes
Did you insert the 10 thou plasticard packing wedge to adjust the worm gear wheel mesh as per the chassis modification instructions?
That said I have only seen one of these locos with the chassis modified that runs well.
It was purchased from the 009 society sales stand so I have no idea who made it.
I think you have to make sure that the body holds the motor in place when the chassis is fitted and that the plastic chassis does not distort when it is fixed into the loco body.
You are correct both the chassis and the motor are plastic and with the rear of the motor cradle removed they can easily bend causing the motor worm to jump the gears. The plastic top and bottom edges of these motors (where the magnets are) can also split apart from the front plate of the motor, and that will make the problem even worse!
Others may have more information.
Brian Meldon
The unwanted flexibility in Bachmann's plastic isn't limited to the 0-4-0 as I have a couple of bigger chassis (those with 'proper metal motors') that have needed packing under the back end of the motor to keep the worm in mesh, and as Brian says it is even worse when the plastic motor casings start to come apart (but I have stick them back together again with careful use of super glue).
I've got one of these waiting to be built so the 'heads up' is useful.
I wonder if it may be worth looking for anything about the body that may be pushing down on the back end of the motor and/or chassis when I build mine (as I'm sure Ian will have checked this aspect).
Hi All,
Thanks for the the replies, the chassis was modified exactly as per the instructions.I contacted Nigel Lawton regards his re-motoring kit but alas he only does the motors and not the complete kit with the cradle. So I am still open to ideas
Ian H
From memory Nigel's remotoring kit consisted of one of his 10X12 motors and an etched brass fold-up mount. Having just seen one of the West Mids Group members (Ben Powell's) Ibertren chassis remotored with one of Sven's motors (https://tramfabriek.nl/motors.html) where he had made up a cradle from some plastic tube (as an open-topped cradle to hold the motor) glued to a section of square brass tube (as a packing piece to get the cradle at the right height) the job may not be as difficult as it looks.
At the risk of sounding too negative, my experience with using the Lawton motor with the Bachmann chassis was that the motor did not have enough "grunt" to get the mechanism moving, but once going, it ran at quite high speed. I therefore replaced this with a spare (?Arnold) mini motor, which has been a lot better. In another conversion, I used the motor from the Kato tram chassis, which has been highly successful.
However, I sense that Sven's motors are more powerful, so may be a good choice.
It may well be that other motors are too long to fit inside the loco body. I have remotored these chassis using a Mashima 1015, Neville Kent's new motor will also fit and in my estimation is actually a better (and cheaper) motor than the Mashima. A 1012 motor I bought from Nigel a few years ago was indeed very disappointing, little torque or speed control, very much on or off. One I have bought recently does seem a lot better.
My present problem is removing the worm from the dead motor. I have managed this before but the present one is resisting all attempts. Does anyone have such a worm or even know of a compatible one?
Rod,
Some information I have come across in my own search for answers to my own problems, hope you can make sense of it all. For a replacement worm try a NWSL steelworm 0.4 MOD x6mmx1.5mm bore #50400-6, it 1mm longer but I am asured it does work
Regards
Ian H
Thank you Ian. I shall try that.
Have you tried sticking the motor in with clear acryllic sealer ?
Quote from: rod335 on January 18, 2019, 11:41
It may well be that other motors are too long to fit inside the loco body. I have remotored these chassis using a Mashima 1015, Neville Kent's new motor will also fit and in my estimation is actually a better (and cheaper) motor than the Mashima. A 1012 motor I bought from Nigel a few years ago was indeed very disappointing, little torque or speed control, very much on or off. One I have bought recently does seem a lot better.
My present problem is removing the worm from the dead motor. I have managed this before but the present one is resisting all attempts. Does anyone have such a worm or even know of a compatible one?
Rod, Since I assume that you have no further need for the motor itself, when I removed the worm, I gripped the shaft gently below the worm between the "wire cutting" part of a pair of pliers (if I recall, I held the jaws shut with an elastic band) laid the pliers across my vise, then took a suitable nail, with a flattened end, and hammered the life out of the motor motor shaft through the worm. This did no good to the motor! but the worm came free. Any small damage to the end of the worm was easily repaired with a file and that part of the worm does not mesh with the gear. I give no guarantees of success, but it can be done by the brave ! :)
I have a Pug Bash using the Lawton motor and it runs fine, it was one of his remotoring kits.
Mal.
It should be noited that from what i understand the reason the Bachmann re-motoring kits were discontinued is because Nigel was no longer able to obtain the shaft adapter for the worm without ordering an vast quantity of many thousands!
Brian Meldon
Thanks fo all yor help and ideas guys, spoken to sven (via e-mail) he is quite willing to make a motor and cradle for me for my other chassis, and I have found that the motor from a kato 103/104 is (with a litlle fettling) a very good substitute and with the same contacts. Though I think I have solved my problem it was quite simple realy, I soldered the top pickup to the collector, in and out quickly with a very hot iron and loads of flux then filling the resulting gap at the bottom between the motor and cradle with epoxy, bit "Heath Robinson" but hey, it works. So thanks for your help and advice once again, just one more thing does anyone know the date of the "Tewksbury" n.g. expo? been looking in the press but nothing.
Happy Modeling All
Ian H.
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It would seem the Tewkesbury venue was a one off for the M5/M50 NG exhibition.
It is recently announced that it will this year been on Saturday 19 October in its former village hall location. Details here.
http://m5m50ngm.co.uk/2019-exhibition
CP