I purchased a Bachmann Baldwin in July this year and it's been a lovely little runner up until yesterday when all of a sudden it started having trouble running in a forward direction. Going in reverse it's fine but when I try to get it to run forwards it will crawl for an inch or so and then just stop. I've checked the valve gear and coupling rods and can't see any damage. Just wondering if anyone might have some idea about what's going on before I send it back to Bachmann under warranty.
I had same trouble with mine. I removed the tanks and where the chip should fit there is a substitute board for analogie operation. I took that off and refitted it and after that the loco worked fine. The only downside is that the lamps don't work now so while it's running fine I'm leaving it. Regards Andy
I tried that with mine but it didn't make any difference
I have seen one of these behave in a similar fashion - it ran fine in one direction but very slowly in the other - and at the same time taking a high current from the controller. I had seen posts about the "blanking" plug issue, and was asked to see it that was the cause.
On taking the loco apart, I re-seated the blanking plug a number of times, but it did not fix the problem. Something was getting hot, however - possibly on the blanking plug itself. (Hint: put your lower lip on the suspect item - you get a get indication of what is hotter than it should be!)
The person I was speaking with had another of these (which was fine) I suggested he try swapping over the blanking plugs to see if the fault stayed with the loco or transferred across with the plug. I haven't heard back from him as yet
Quote from: hughn on November 18, 2018, 15:29
(Hint: put your lower lip on the suspect item - you get a get indication of what is hotter than it should be!)
The person I was speaking with had another of these (which was fine) I suggested he try swapping over the blanking plugs to see if the fault stayed with the loco or transferred across with the plug. I haven't heard back from him as yet
Maybe he followed your "hint" as well and is currently in A&E........................?
Mick
I was SO tempted to post that, Mick. Well played!
I would have thought that these locos were still covered under manufactures warranty.
So if you have a fault why not take it back to where you got it from rather than messing about with it yourself?
I do however know that there are a couple of surface mount (ie tiny) diodes in the locos that can blow if the locos are used on some feedback controllers. (KPC
Quote from: B.Meldon on November 19, 2018, 13:53
I would have thought that these locos were still covered under manufactures warranty.
So if you have a fault why not take it back to where you got it from rather than messing about with it yourself?
I do however know that there are a couple of surface mount (ie tiny) diodes in the locos that can blow if the locos are used on some feedback controllers. (KPC
Quote from: hughn on November 20, 2018, 11:02
Quote from: B.Meldon on November 19, 2018, 13:53
I would have thought that these locos were still covered under manufactures warranty.
So if you have a fault why not take it back to where you got it from rather than messing about with it yourself?
I do however know that there are a couple of surface mount (ie tiny) diodes in the locos that can blow if the locos are used on some feedback controllers. (KPC
Quote from: B.Meldon on November 19, 2018, 13:53
.....
I do however know that there are a couple of surface mount (ie tiny) diodes in the locos that can blow if the locos are used on some feedback controllers. (KPC
Quote from: cp.409067 on November 20, 2018, 11:43
Quote from: B.Meldon on November 19, 2018, 13:53
.....
I do however know that there are a couple of surface mount (ie tiny) diodes in the locos that can blow if the locos are used on some feedback controllers. (KPC
Quote from: B.Meldon on November 20, 2018, 11:28
Quote from: hughn on November 20, 2018, 11:02
Quote from: B.Meldon on November 19, 2018, 13:53
I would have thought that these locos were still covered under manufactures warranty.
So if you have a fault why not take it back to where you got it from rather than messing about with it yourself?
I do however know that there are a couple of surface mount (ie tiny) diodes in the locos that can blow if the locos are used on some feedback controllers. (KPC
I would agree that if your loco is giving problems, the first action would be return it to the supplier for replacement/repair rather than take it to pieces.
And that's precisely what I'm going to do tomorrow. Reseating the blanking plug didn't work so there's no point in delving any further. Interesting to hear that others have had the same problem.
Quote from: B.Meldon on November 20, 2018, 11:54
Quote from: B.Meldon on November 19, 2018, 13:53
.....
I do however know that there are a couple of surface mount (ie tiny) diodes in the locos that can blow if the locos are used on some feedback controllers. (KPC
Quote from: JohnS on November 20, 2018, 18:58
And that's precisely what I'm going to do tomorrow. Reseating the blanking plug didn't work so there's no point in delving any further. Interesting to hear that others have had the same problem.
What controller are you using John?
Brian Meldon
I'm using a Gaugemaster Combi which as far as I'm aware shouldn't be the cause of any problems
Quote from: JohnS on November 21, 2018, 10:08
I'm using a Gaugemaster Combi which as far as I'm aware shouldn't be the cause of any problems
Have you just one GM Combi on the layout or two (or more) with section switches etc?
Brian Meldon
Just the one
Just set up a test track; an oval of set track with some points and a loop, to try out and run in my Baldwin which I purchased in July but for various reasons haven't tried out yet.
Using the Minitrains controller, which has always proved fine when wired into the test track, it would go forwards at full speed with no trouble, at half speed it went forward in a series of stops and starts at low speed it went but emitted an alarming hum. In reverse it would go at full speed or not at all.
I switched to the Gaugemaster combi which I use for the other layout and the Baldwin runs perfectly, slow or fast backwards or forwards. I managed to avoid sideways which can be an option at full speed on set track curves! Can't comment on lights as mine is "Peggy" and doesn't have any.
Quote from: Paulc on November 22, 2018, 12:28
Just set up a test track; an oval of set track with some points and a loop, to try out and run in my Baldwin which I purchased in July but for various reasons haven't tried out yet.
Using the Minitrains controller, which has always proved fine when wired into the test track, it would go forwards at full speed with no trouble, at half speed it went forward in a series of stops and starts at low speed it went but emitted an alarming hum. In reverse it would go at full speed or not at all.
I switched to the Gaugemaster combi which I use for the other layout and the Baldwin runs perfectly, slow or fast backwards or forwards. I managed to avoid sideways which can be an option at full speed on set track curves! Can't comment on lights as mine is "Peggy" and doesn't have any.
Others have also mentioned that these locos do not run properly with the Minitrains controller.
Brian Meldon
I to am having problems with my Bachmann Baldwin not going forwards but running fine in reverse which have only started yesterday, I purchased in Oct & doubt that I have more than 30 mins use on it. It is running on DC only & I use a Gaugemaster Combi controller so should be no issues there.
On the Facebook 009 Group there are also quite a few reports of this problem. My supplier is taking mine back & replacing it with a new one, and I really hope this solves the problem.
Has any one had any Feedback from Bachmann about what potentially appears to be a bit of an issue?.
Received my new one back on 11th Dec, accumulated about 15 mins running so far & OK, but nervous of how long it will continue OK for?!!
Hi Christopher, I think you have also posted on my thread on the same subject on RMweb. I received my Baldwin back from Bachmann this morning and they said they had replaced a faulty PCB. It's working fine now.
Thanks for Feedback, & I hope this has resolved your problem.
I purchased my Baldwin back in May . Within the running in period it failed with symptons as above. Returned to retailer who replaced it with no quibble. Within a fortnight again failed with same symptons. Returned this time to Bachman who advised had replaced faulty component. This time it lasted about ten weeks before again failing. Again returned to Bachman who advised they had replaced Loco and track tested it. Within one hour had failed again. Using Gaugemaster Combi controller which Bachmann okayed first time. Have so far spent about twenty quid returning this load of rubbish so now in box at back of cupboard till after xmas. Should I then spend more good money after bad returning this yet again which seems pointless as Bachman seem to be replacing a faulty component like for like, or do i remove the electronics and straight wire it myself. I have contacted a solicitor friend for advice as the thing could possibly be deemed 'not fit for purpose' so will wait for his reply.
Tail end of last week I removed my fourth replacement[failed] loco from its box with a view to directly wiring motor and pickups as fedup with keep paying postage sending it back to Bachmann. It had failed pre xmas within thirty minutes of placing it on the rails in
the 'normal' fashion , sudden lack of power in one direction, very little power in other direction and hot electric smell. However on removing the blanking plug there seemed to be a blob of excess plastic on the bottom of it. I carefully filed that away, brushed any dust etc out of plug and socket and refitted. It went home with a much more satisfying positive click but alas made no difference at all powerwise. Whilst still on the rails with a little power on I did
notice that if I twisted the blanking plug slightly in one direction the loco wanted to take off in both directions. Once released all action stopped again. Managing to keep the board very slightly twisted I applied a small piece of masking tape to the end of the small pcb that carries the plug and affixed other end to the chassis hopefully to hold it in position. The loco has now run perfectly for the
last four days including one almost continuous session of almost two hours. The headlights do not however work, so presumably it was the components controlling them that expired with the hot electric smell. That i can live with as on the plus side the loco is much more controllable and runs much more smoothly at low speeds. Might not cure everyones problem but seems to be working for me as not interested in sound mods or DCC anyway and indicates that the problem may still well be with the blanking plug and socket.
The problem seems to be confined to the DCC ready trickery. If this facility is not required, I offer this alternative. Whether or not we should HAVE to do this is not a question I would wish to go into. But this solution seems to work.
Remove the tank assembly (held underneath by two cross head screws) and remove the screws holding the DCC gubbins. Lift the board up and underneath, from left to right, you will see 8 soldered wires. Solder wire 1 to wire 7 and wire 6 to wire 8. Unsolder all others and remove the board. To tame the locos a bit, put a 150 ohm 1/4 watt resistor between either 1 and 7 or 6 and 8, it makes no difference where you place it. Reassemble loco. You will now have a non DCC ready conventional loco which, hopefully, avoids any of the problems some have encounterred.
I must stress that this modification ius NOT recommended or approved by Bachmann and although it has worked for me on both my Baldwins (which had not suffered problems) I can offer no guarantees or accept any liability for any consequential damage howsoever caused.
Just out of interest, you understand, Rod, but from which direction are you counting the wires? or are they numbered on the circuit board?
Left to right viewed from underneath. Sorry, I thought I had said that!
Quote from: JohnS on December 05, 2018, 19:45
Hi Christopher, I think you have also posted on my thread on the same subject on RMweb. I received my Baldwin back from Bachmann this morning and they said they had replaced a faulty PCB. It's working fine now.
Hi John, just for info I had to return my replacement engine to Bachmann as it did fail after an hour or so, on receiving back from Bachmann it failed very quickly in both directions!!. I then returned again & received back on 12th Jan with a note to say they had tested for an hour in each direction & fitted a PCB from a the last batch to arrive. Touch wood this latest repair with what looks like a PCB from a new batch is working well, which is great as I have found it to be a great little loco when working. If it carries on OK for a further month or so I'll risk buying a further engine.
Quote from: rod335 on January 18, 2019, 21:34
Left to right viewed from underneath. Sorry, I thought I had said that!
So you did - sorry!
Hope my reply didn't sound rude. I didn't re-read my post but assumed, because you asked the question, that I hadn't mentioned it!
Anyone had issues with the pony truck derailing on Peco points? I can see the truck riding up on the frog, I assume it's a back to back issue?
What Peco points are you using?
9 inch
12 inch (and 18 inch Y) made before 2010.
12 inch (and 18 inch Y) made from 2010 onwards.
18 inch 'mainline' points.
The reason I ask is that I have always had issues with the 12 inch and 18 inch Y points made before 2010.
In detail the gauge is too tight at the tip of the frog, the outer checkrails are not quite long enough, the stright was curved and the curve was not constant (two almost stright sections and a tighter curve in the middle) this was all addressed by Peco in the 2010 update.
The pre-2010 points can be identified as they have a fishplate where the blades piviot. (The 2010 onwards points havew a proper piviot for the blades.)
Brian Meldon
Bought last year 12" R/H and and 18" Y and they have pivots so it's not old stock. Ordered a back to back gauge from DCC to check.
Fault found, there was a small piece of flash from the axle insulator that was hitting the check rails.
Bet the owners of the Heljan locos wish the fix was that easy for their issues!
Has any member had a successful experience with a sound fitted Baldwin. I am using a Gaugemaster Prodigy Express controller, but getting very delayed reactions. This may be due to not programming the Zimo chip properly but their instruction manual is incomprehensible. Gaugemaster advised me to see all values at Zero other than the locomotive name, but this seemed to make things worse.
It would be great to share some views. Incidentally my two DC controlled locomotives are working fine so perhaps it is too much to assk for sound as well.
Best
Nick
Can I send a message of thanks to Rod for his clear instructions on rewiring the Bachmann Baldwin.
I now have a working loco again.
Cheers
I have to say that my Bachmann WHR Baldwin with factory fitted DCC sound is an absolutely stunning model. The sound is great and it's slow running is excellent.
I purchased one last week and within days It would only run backwards. This was a new delivery from Bachmann so it seems that in spite of this common fault they have not changed the circuit board with the duff diode. The shop changed it without question. I knew before purchase not to use feedback control.. other than this setback lovely model, but more comfortable on curves 11inches or more. Pgh.