Hi,
In order to back-date my stock, is it possible to procure spoked wheels for Egger/Jouef or even Liliput stock? Are 2mm or N society products suitable, even if they require re-gauging?
Tim Hale
I once fitted an Egger skip chassis with Dundas spoked wheels (also giving a smaller wheel diameter which I needed). It was slightly less free running than before and I recall having to file the pinpoint ends slightly to fit which would explain that but it still ran reasonably once weighted.
Danny
I have never tried this myself.
However here is a link to the new Dundas Models wheels web page, you could get a couple of sets to try them, the critical thing will be the axle length:
https://dundasmodels.co.uk/webstore/index.php/hikashop-menu-for-module-108/category/511-dundas-models-009-wheels-bearings
Brian Meldon
Filing the ends of pinpoint axles negates the point of having them in the first place. You should deepen the axleboxes by either drilling them out SLIGHTLY or by fitting the new wheelsets and squeezing the axleboxes together between finger and thumb. The plastic will (usually) give just enough to let the wheels turn freely.
Unfortunately in this case the small size of the chassis made this difficult. It was a while ago and I can't remember if I changed the wheels primarily to give a smaller diameter or to look better.
Hi
I have fitted bachman graham farish spoked wagon wheels as a straight swap, Peco wheels (now also spoked) will also fit onto Egger larger 4 wheel stock. (Please note this is on modern N gauge code 55 track and points) I think you could find the running "lumpy" if using old track. Please note you will need to stop the axles from swiveling (I lock them up with bluetack as this can undone for resale) Having stopped the axels from swiveling best too use radius above 18" If you use finer wheels your track needs to be more realistic. For example Peco N Gauge 3' radius points confirm to Prussian 760mm geometry at 3.5mm scale! Except for the sleepers.
Fine scale N gauge wheel sets the axle length is too short
Regards D J
I've found that "pinching" the axle boxes works a treat too. It works well with kits too, if the frames are glued in place a bit on the tight side. A gentle squeeze or two until the wheels run freely.
Quote from: D J Mason on April 04, 2018, 15:45
..................Please note you will need to stop the axles from swiveling (I lock them up with bluetack as this can undone for resale) Having stopped the axels from swiveling best too use radius above 18" ................
Regards D J
I also use bluetack to lock the single axle Egger bogies. If you do not they twist to one side and can easily derail when being pushed.
I find that they then work ok on 12 inch curves and points. But only if you have a minimum of 18 inch (ei 009 Peco Y points and mainline) reverse curves.
But the same also goes for the couplings on the Liliput four wheel coaches and vans ie 12 inch curves and points but 18 inch reverse curves minimum.
On Meanderbahn with its 9 inch curves we replace the two wheel bogies on the Egger wagons with Roco/Minitrians four wheel bolsters as bogies positioned so that the couplings on the bogies overhang the end.
Brian Meldon