what is the maximum gap 009 people here would be happy with at a baseboard join to ensure reliable running? I am a bit concerned as some of my gaps have increased to close to 3mm after some scenic work. I feel I need to sort this out, but wonder if people are generally happy with.... 2mm? 1mm?
3mm is quite a gap in our scale, you really should sort this if you want to avoid endless derailments. I personally would not tolerate any gap in trackwork of more than 1mm at a baseboard joint and I allways try to reduce the gap to as little as possble, the aim being to have a gap the width of a razor saw blade and to keep it that width. On Draig Goch I can just get a peice of paper into the gap between rails.
I'm not sure how you've built up your scenery but try checking along the inside of your end profile boards to make sure no PVA or plaster has dried on the ends or if you've used plaster bandage that it dose'nt over lap the ends if that makes sense.
If that fails to cure the problem check that your end profile boards have not warped during scenery construction, this seems to be a common problem encounted by some during ballasting where the dillute PVA soaks into the wood causing it to expand.
Hope this helps,
Darren.
Hi Colin
No gap is best, but more than about 1mm can be a problem. Height and lateral alignment is also very important and kinks in the rail at or near the joint should be avoided. I try to plan layouts so that the tracks cross board joints at or very nearly at right angles.
From my experiences the main factor that causes the rail gaps at baseboard joints to change with time is the expansion and contraction of the rails with variations of temperature and the distortion of wooden base-board components as they dry out or absorb moisture.
If the baseboards are constructed with sufficient bracing this can be greatly reduced. I use a
Thanks guys, the trouble with modelling prototypes is that you can't always avoid rail joins at angles...
Having looked again, it's only one join that is really concerning at 3mm, but some are close to 2mm so I have decided to take some time to properly sort this out. The rail ends are indeed soldered onto pcb and that is glued (powerbond) to the 9mm ply (which is braced with 2 by 1) so I shouldn't have a warping issue. I think the key problem is that I wrapped the plaster bandage around the edge of the scenic formers, thus increasing the gaps where they abut.
I will sort this out and plane/sand the boards too to get very close joins. There's no point in having good mechanisms, DCC programmed acceleration and well cleaned track if your stock always derails in front of the punters!
Cheers Colin
Colin
I think it is possible to plan and construct prototype layouts with right angle rail joints at bard edges. The best way to do this if different angles are absolutely necessary at a board joint is to vary the angle of the base board edges. Even if more than one angle is required the baseboard edge can be made in such a way to allow for this. It does require more woodworking time in the first place but it can be done, and will pay you back over time.
Many layouts are built the wrong way round, that is to say the normally rectangular baseboards are made first and then a track plan is applied to them that is often a compromise in design or functionality. Rather than planning the baseboards to fit with the desired track plan.
Brian Meldon
I absolutely agree with the advice given so far. 1mm max gap and there are no problems. Personally, I never allow rails to actually touch from one board to the next so for me, .5mm minimum gap.
Very oblique angles on track at joint will always cause problems. I have two such situations on CG where the main line runs into our rear fiddle yard. This is how that is solved using a track section to bridge the gap.
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In my experience, another problem is the use of 'Mickey Mouse' toggles to join baseboard together. I would suggest some 'testosterone toggles' which are adjustable. These are available from Wixroyd
http://www.wixroyd.com/products/draw-latches-stainless.htm (http://www.wixroyd.com/products/draw-latches-stainless.htm)
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best of luck
JdF
Thanks John, have ordered some of those beastly clamps. How do you clamp the boards together when they abut at 90 degree angles?
Will have a think about your tube method. I like it, but the acute angles are very visible on the layout, so the tube soldered to the rail would likely spoil the look.
Cheers Colin
Easy peasey
I have the same situation with my harbour which is at right angles. The hook element it set into one board in a hole. A very strong box structure is built into the hole.
If you need a drawing contact me and I shall do one for you.
Rather than use bolts like I do (which are indeed off scene) make the removable section drop into accurately drilled holes which will locate it. Cutting rails at an angle will always trip things up sooner or later.
best
JdF
ooh a drawing would be most helpful, thanks.
Colin
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better still
I found this photo. I filled in the hole with a box afterwards. I felt it important to have a solid cross member at this point so that the toggle could really draw it together.