009 Society Members Forum

Modelling => Locomotives => Topic started by: RJSRdg on July 18, 2009, 21:05

Title: Outside cranks
Post by: RJSRdg on July 18, 2009, 21:05
Reading the 'Barber' article in the 009 News - are there any plans to mass-produce the frets of add-on outside cranks and make them available to members? I've got a fleet of GF Prairie-powered VoR locos that would look a lot better with outside frames (if my soldering skills are up to it!).

Richard
Title: Re: Outside cranks
Post by: JulienW on July 19, 2009, 10:47
It was some time ago when I last spoke to Brian Golding about these.  The plan was to improve the design by using a turned brass stub axle (as opposed to brass rod).

The drawback now is that Farish now produce an 08 chassis with the correct outside frames, so plans to produce something to add to the old style chassis (or something like Neville Kent's replacement) have been a little superseeded and may not see the light of day.

I know that it would be a more expensive route, but I have seen very good results from the new 08 chassis so my choce would be to go down that route - and recoup some of the cost by selling the old spare chassis through Brian (for use under the Gem Baldwin) and the 08 bodies on eBay.
Title: Re: Outside cranks
Post by: pilotfriend on July 19, 2009, 19:44
Well, Julien, you saw 3 class 08 chassis operating on County Gate Yesterday. The chassis is wide though and to fit some prototypes, it is necessary to shorten the crank shafts and then requarter.

see

http://www.009.cd2.com/grafar_mw.htm (http://www.009.cd2.com/grafar_mw.htm)

for an example

I would say that the wheels of this unit are more slippery than some.

best
JdF
Title: Re: Outside cranks
Post by: JulienW on July 20, 2009, 10:08
Thanks John.  I'd had a feelong that you had used the new farish chassis but was not sure.
Title: Re: Outside cranks
Post by: RJSRdg on July 20, 2009, 18:34
I'd thought of using the new 08 chassis (or Neil's version) but I wasn't sure how easy it'd be to attach pony trucks (and the Grafar pony trucks are difficult to source/expensive as spares).

Richard
Title: Re: Outside cranks
Post by: rhydddu009 on July 21, 2009, 10:33
has anyone tried using the new farish 08 with the GEM baldwin yet?
Colin
Title: Re: Outside cranks
Post by: JulienW on July 22, 2009, 09:16
Quote from: rhydddu009 on July 21, 2009, 10:33
has anyone tried using the new farish 08 with the GEM baldwin yet?
Colin

No point.  The WD Baldwin was built with inside bar frames and must be one of the few cases where outside cranks for 009 would be wrong!

see http://chappers.fotopic.net/p41165313.html

For the Gem Baldwin use the Farish J94, or whatever the Austerity 0-6-0ST is called, as it is the same as the old style 08 chassis.

One place that the Farish 08 with OSF might be useful is under the Meridian WD Alco 2-6-2 that had outside bar frames.
Title: Re: Outside cranks
Post by: rhydddu009 on July 22, 2009, 14:21
a very good point sir!  :o
Title: Re: Outside cranks
Post by: JulienW on July 22, 2009, 20:35
  ;D

Don't worry about it.  I've spent far to long looking at drawings of them and reading the books on the WD railways.  Finally having one in the flesh (or should that be metal) and in steam is wonderful.

Means I can get all that detailing right on the 3 I have built.
Title: Re: Outside cranks
Post by: rhydddu009 on July 23, 2009, 09:51
I've just been fiddling around with the baldwin gem kit, and feel that (on my curves anyway) the front pony truck would be likely to short on the cylinders, so I think I'll put some insulation between them - anyone had any experience of this?
Title: Re: Outside cranks
Post by: MickT on July 23, 2009, 12:10
File some of the inside of the cylinders away on both sides - it won't notice, and for added anti-shorting insurance, glue some sellotape to the body on the inside of the cylinders and the underside of the front footplate above the bogie; use glue and don't just rely on the adhesive on the "sticky back plastic"

Mick
Title: Re: Outside cranks
Post by: JulienW on July 24, 2009, 10:59
Quote from: rhydddu009 on July 23, 2009, 09:51
I've just been fiddling around with the baldwin gem kit, and feel that (on my curves anyway) the front pony truck would be likely to short on the cylinders, so I think I'll put some insulation between them - anyone had any experience of this?
Quote from: MickT on July 23, 2009, 12:10
File some of the inside of the cylinders away on both sides - it won't notice, and for added anti-shorting insurance, glue some sellotape to the body on the inside of the cylinders and the underside of the front footplate above the bogie; use glue and don't just rely on the adhesive on the "sticky back plastic"

Mick

Just sticking some tape on the back of the cylinders will make the available space smaller, so whilst your Badlwin will not short out going around your curve it will probably fall over!  If the front pony truck does touch and short out file the backs of the cylinders away first to get more clearance then go for the tape, and as Mick says glue the tape on as the sellotape's (or whatever) own glue will dry out and become useless over time.
Title: Re: Outside cranks
Post by: DeadHorse on July 24, 2009, 23:15
Smaller diameter pony wheels from Dundas?
Added security as they are insulated. :)
Title: Re: Outside cranks
Post by: pilotfriend on July 25, 2009, 09:10
The thought of trying to glue Selotape to act as insulation seems far too hard for me. Two coats of Ronseal matt varnish does the trick and will not come loose subsequently.