I
There are no kits designed for this chassis and making them fit into a 009 body kit can require a lot of cutting about of the chassis and the kit. The design of the chassis is very restrictive in regard to any rear pony trucks.
Also it is know that these chassis do not last long if you fit them with a white metal body that is somewhat heavier than the original Roco body.
My recommendation is to modify the original body to look more British (if that is what you want) rather than use a 009 white metal body kit.
But others may think differently.
Brian Meldon
There has been at least one individual who expirenced rapid wear of the bearings in his Roco BR99 chassis, but then he did fit a great deal of lead ballast into his loco bodies and ran them very intensively on exhibition layouts which one would hardly describe as 'typical' usage.
I would start by weighing the Roco loco as supplied and aiming to not exceed this (or at least not by a huge margin) in fitting a replacement body, which as Brian suggests would need to be modified or scratch built as there are no specific kits for the chassis - though that's not to say that the isn't something that someone has done on Shapeways but I've never felt inclined to go through the whole site to find them.
I've done Manning Wardles works number 1919 - 1921 in FUD for the chassis. The body works out at about
Thank you everyone for your responses.
I'm quite interested in the Manning Wardle printed loco body. Do you have a drawing of the loco (I've found a [pretty poor] photo but can't find any drawings of the loco)? Any information on how to buy the body kit would be appreciated.
Thanks Geoff
Geoff, the drawing was taken from the 16mm today magazine. I'll see if I've got any as printed pictures of the body to show the work required
Shown are the CAD generated views. It comes as 3 parts which are: -
1 cab back, bunker and roof
2 smokebox, boiler and firebox
3 running plate, tanks and cab front.
As mentioned in previous post there is more detailing to do, whistle, handrails, some cab interior, pipework, pony truck assembly plus whatever else you want.
How you fasten the motor in is to your own preference. 1 has the motor glued in and with the other I used a bit of brass strip bent to shape. there is also a tiny bit of filing to do on the chassis.
Regards,
Andy