Anyone know how to get a replacement for Lilliputian 0-6-2 motor
If it's the current model, Bachmann UK Spares will supply one. If it's older try Society Sales, see if they've got a damaged loco with a good motor.
There are five versions of this chassis that use three different types of motor, one with two different shaft lengths.
A photo of the chassis is the easy way to show us what type you have.
The early motors from the 1970
Stick a photo of the chassis up, John, and we can see which version it is!
Many thanks .. will try to attach photo. John
That is a MK2a chassis dating from the 1980's. (Long shaft Mabuchi motor and metal wheels.)
No parts are available from Liliput/Bachmann for this version any more.
I will post some photos of the replacement Mini Scalextric motor shortly.
However I think the main problem you are going to have is removing the original worm from the motor shaft.
Is the existing motor burnt out and not working at all?
Brian Meldon
There is no point in doing any of the following if you can not remove the original worm from the motor shaft. Before you do make a note of the measurement from the back of the motor to the end of the worm as you will need this later.
The Micro Scalextric motors like the Liliput motors are made by Mabuchi and are the same basic size and shape as the Liliput originals. They are 12v and run very smoothly. The also have proper brushes, I say this as some Mabuchi motors of the same size type do not have brushes.
However they do have some detail differences that require alterations to fit the Liliput Mk1 and Mk2 chassis.
Thankfully they are however quite cheap to purchase at under
Please also note that these MK2a chassis with the metal wheels have a problem with the wheels coming lose on the axles. This will jam the chassis and could well snap the plastic coupling rods that are no longer available as a spare part and virtually imposable to obtain.
The rear pony truck has a spring between it and the rear coupling. The correct adjustment of this spring is when the loco is up side down the pony truck wheels should be at the exact same height at the driving wheels. (Put a bit of track on the up side down loco to test this.)
The rear couplings can be a bit of a pain as they do not self centralise. However an easy cure for this is to add two small bits of foam rubber each side of the coupling. Only a tiny amount is needed. Here is a photo:
(https://forum.009society.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi663.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu358%2FM-e-l-l-o-w%2FLiliput%25200-6-2%2FOldRearCoupling.jpg&hash=ae4e4759e504ef23eabbca86c06afe38676e1cff)
Brian Meldon
Brian... wow what great detail.... I think I have two micro scalectrix cars in the loft.. shall investigate tommorrow... I think I shall take this repair very slowly , as I really like the loco and yes the motor brushes are kaput...
At one of the trade stands at EXPOng gave me advice about using heat and cooling selectively to get the worm gear off the old shaft.. so I am optimistic with your excellent detailed guidance that I can get this sorted.
The use of foam to self centre will be useful on a few other self build locos on the Kate chassis.
Many thanks again. John
Do you have the brass brush holders and the springs?
Is any of the plastic melted?
If you have the brush holders and springs they are the same diameter as those used in several other makes of motors.
I have had about 10 of these Mk1 and Mk2 Liliput 0-6-2's in use over the past 30 years or so. The result is I have come across just about every problem that they have. I still have six of these early versions in use today.
Three are more or less as made but were all painted in stock green in the 1980's. They look like this:
(https://forum.009society.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi663.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu358%2FM-e-l-l-o-w%2FLiliput%25200-6-2%2FLiliput0-6-244_zps1a35b279.jpg&hash=c171877ae00bf067a977be6294e2e568f2ebfa5b)
However they started to look out of place and lack detail when compared to the later MK3, 4 and 5 versions and next to other newer RTR locos or locos that I have built so about 10 years ago I started to re-build them into DR locos with most of the moulded in detail removed and separate pipes, rods etc. added as well as a Halfords satin black respray red wheels and some parts of the plastic valve gear painted as well. They now look ok next to the newer locos but the work needed takes ages so in the end I decided a couple of years back to sell the non updated locos and just keep the newer versions and those I have already converted. The converted locos look like this:
(https://forum.009society.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi663.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu358%2FM-e-l-l-o-w%2FLiliput%25200-6-2%2FLiliput0-6-24706_zps56462c96.jpg&hash=a3ab1d20af7f231babc777d838d068f863b4f3a3)
Brian Meldon
Brian they look great in red... lots of useful tips.... I think the old motor has little worth salvaging, probably my fault, took it apart a few weeks ago when it refused to run, with no idea of how fragile small the brushes were.
However good news found working mini scalectrix in the loft.... kept for the grandchildren... can always order new chassis. Managed to remove the worm gear ok, by pulling of the armature and the carefully easing off shaft with other end in vice.....
Have now managed to push scalectrix shaft through, but will need spacer, ( looking for something suitable) but there is only about 2mm of shaft to insert in the brass worm gear if I am to get the correct length( this was 38mm). I expect I will need to use locktight or superglue with extreme care to get a firm fix, but looking promising... I have three other motors to use if I make a mess of it.
Will let you know how it goes in next few days... many thanks again. John
You may be able to push the shaft through a little more. The rear motor bearing is slightly recessed so the motor shaft can be recessed slightly as well giving you about another 1mm at the other end.
Yes indeed Loctite etc. may well be needed.
Brian Meldon
We'll have got it to run, although only works if I do not tighten the top motor clamp down fully... slips near top of my gradient , but have not done loctite yet( got to buy it). However with a bit of fettling I have a fun loco again that will add some interest. The gradients( spirals) on my layout are fairly challenging anyway, most of my trains will be railcars or short trains to the upper level anyway. I need to get on and finish the cab control panel now and provide a proper transformer, as my 2-4-2 lilliput diesel is a bit sensitive to the current gaugemaster controlled powered off an old hormby (15v transformer). Kate chassis are not fussy at all.. still that's another topic!
Thanks again for detailed advice Brian.. without it I would probably have given up on the loco once I found the scalectrix motors needed so much attention.
John
There is another issue with these chassis that I did not mention.
This is that the Mazak chassis blocks distort with time. The early signs are, as you have found, that the motors with the long shafts do not sit at the correct angle to correctly engage the worm with the first gear wheel.
I use very thin packing under the motor so it sits at the correct angle when the retaining screw is tightened.
This distorting is caused by tiny cracks in the metal it can get very bad ending up with the driving wheels set on a curve or the chassis just snapping. Here is one very bad example that gives you an idea of what I am on about:
(https://forum.009society.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi663.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu358%2FM-e-l-l-o-w%2FLiliput%25200-6-2%2520Rebuild%2FCrackedchassis.jpg&hash=64d109d29885f47954247fa083b18c199c5a1fd9)
You may also find that the plastic section of the motor hits the gear wheel on the chassis, removing a small amount of material from the motor will sort this out.
It has to be said that these locos have been improved again and again over the years, the latest versions are massively better than the 1970
Is the valve gear metallic on the current models?
Quote from: Harry Mantheakis on November 23, 2016, 14:43
Is the valve gear metallic on the current models?
The coupling rod and the connecting rods are metal. The rest is plastic. But it is a lot more robust and less brittle than the plastic used in the 1970
Thank you Brian - it was the motion I was interested in.
I bought two of these in 2000 and now they are boxed up somewhere because I could never get them to run reliably. To their credit, Backmann sent me a complete wheel and motion replacement when I contacted them about one of them wobbling noticeably. I knew very little about these things back then (nor about having a decent controller because I was preoccupied with making my own).
I bought a Tillig H0e loco at about the same time, and that had a fully metallic motion and ran beautifully - I ran it frequently until the gears split last year!
If you have a wobbly one my guess would be the quartering is out.
They did have a problem with the insulators in the middle of the wheels slipping on the axles.
I have also lost count of the locos I have seen with snapped fixings for the plastic plate under the axles.
People just try to un-clip it and it snaps when all you need to do is remove the front coupling and slide forward to remove it!
Brian Meldon
Quote from: Harry Mantheakis on November 23, 2016, 15:52
I bought a Tillig H0e loco at about the same time, and that had a fully metallic motion and ran beautifully - I ran it frequently until the gears split last year!
Not all the Tillig valve gear is metal. The crank on the rear axle is plastic and easily broken.
I think the Tillig loco has its origins in the Zuke H0m range??
Split gears! That's not good at all I have three Tillig locos.
I have had a burnt out motor and problems with the pickups, but they do run very well.
Brian Meldon
I remember it as being all metal Brian. Here is a video of the thing after I had fixed the split gear:
https://youtu.be/pfIpjUdfFzw
This "Spreewald" loco was discontinued and I could not get gear replacements for it despite my German friend's best efforts.
But purely by coincidence - and on a punt - I found that I could make a suitable replacement by literally hacking a gear replacement from one of the newer (though completely different) Tillig models, and it ran quite well as you can see in the video (which I made to show my friend).
This is a bit off topic, sorry about that.
All three of my Tillig locos have a different open frame motor and no flywheel.
I guess they must be older?? The crank on the rear wheel is however plastic on your one as well.
Brian Meldon
Quote from: B.Meldon on November 23, 2016, 15:24
Quote from: Harry Mantheakis on November 23, 2016, 14:43
Is the valve gear metallic on the current models?
Here is a new version:
(https://forum.009society.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fliliput.de%2Fimages%2Fproduktbilder%2FL141484.jpg&hash=6c82276e35caca2614152051474da599e286c19a)
Brian,
Where can I buy the new ones? And please don't say eBay, because Obama has frozen the accounts of anyone who does not agree with him.
Kindest,
Andrew
Sorry for being off topic - just to explain, Brian: I had at some point replaced the Spreewald motor with a Faulhaber plus flywheel, as provided by SB Modellbau in Germany.
Quote from: Andrew Emery on November 23, 2016, 20:04
Quote from: B.Meldon on November 23, 2016, 15:24
Quote from: Harry Mantheakis on November 23, 2016, 14:43
Is the valve gear metallic on the current models?
Here is a new version:
(https://forum.009society.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fliliput.de%2Fimages%2Fproduktbilder%2FL141484.jpg&hash=6c82276e35caca2614152051474da599e286c19a)
Brian,
Where can I buy the new ones? And please don't say eBay, because Obama has frozen the accounts of anyone who does not agree with him.
Kindest,
Andrew
Each version of the Liliput H0e locos are now made in small batches. They are available for a short time only, then none are available and then a different version may become available. You have to get them when they appear.
The retail price now is
Frizinghall Model Railway of Bradford have two on their website, OBB and DRG at
Thank you for the information, chaps.
For those of you modelling the DR, here is a photo of some custom waterslide wagon transfers I had made. Let m know if you need any.
Kindest,
Andrew