I need help, please, on two matters concerning the Kato tram chassis. I've built a couple of steeple cab locos for my shunting layout using the Kato 103 chassis. By the nature of the layout, running in is virtually impossible - should it be necessary? Should I invest in a circle of N gauge track? My other question is to do with lubrication. I can find nothing to indicate where I should position a drop of oil on the mechanism or whether that is even required. Guidance from those with far more experience than I (probably most of you) would be appreciated!
For what it's worth, in my experience, they don't need running in and I haven't yet had to lubricate one.
yes, Hugh is right. The nylon or whatever gears don't need oil and oiling will generally only attract dust. running in is also unnecessary. Enough added weight to ensure the wheels make good contact with the rail will help good pick up and smooth running but not more than is necessary. Keep the wheels and track clean including the rear of the wheels as this is where the pick ups rub
Peter Smith
Thank you for your advice. I think the suggestion of added weight is something I should seriously consider. Onwards and upwards!
I would agree absolutely with the advice already given. No maintenance is necessary on the Kato chassis except for wheel cleaning.
With regard to running in, I think that it is always advisable to have a small test track as you can use it to check locos, especially after wheel cleaning. A few runs round the track will not hurt and I have found that Katos do loosen up a bit after this sort of treatment. They key though is to get the right amount of weight in these chassis, especially if you use 3D printed bodies as it makes for greater reliability although do not overdo it or you may reduce the life of the chassis.
Yes - presumably something akin to the weight of the tram body the chassis was intended for would suffice. A bit of Googling has found the figure of 70 grams. I'll see what I can fit inside the body.
You will find the more weight you add the better the chassis will run. (Within reason.)
Less weight results in not just less pressure on the rails for electrical contact but it also increases the dirt collection on the wheels. (Although why that happens I have no idea!)
If the chassis has clean wheels and the contacts are working on all four wheels but it is running poorly I would suggest just getting another chassis. After all they are only about
Quote from: B.Meldon on May 08, 2016, 17:27
If the chassis has clean wheels and the contacts are working on all four wheels but it is running poorly I would suggest just getting another chassis. After all they are only about
Brian- I think the phenomenon of wheels getting dirtier with less weight on them is actually a consequence of the wheels not making good contact with the rail. This promotes arcing between wheel and rail and the 'dirt' you see is actually carbon produced by the arcing process. If you don't believe that 009 locos cause arcing whilst running, get you favourite loco, run it in the dark with your eyes at rail level. You will be surprised and probably shocked as well! I know you hate the stuff but this is where a SPARING application of something like Railzip is useful. It eliminates arcing although I will readily agree with you that too much will promote wheel slip. I apply mine by putting two drops on the check/wing rails of one point and then run a train round several times. This is enough to distribute it round all the track. But as you have said every time I have mentioned this, it must not be overused. But it will prevent arcing and the consequent need to clean loco wheels. Mine are NEVER cleaned.
Quote from: Andrew Emery on May 08, 2016, 22:49
Quote from: B.Meldon on May 08, 2016, 17:27
If the chassis has clean wheels and the contacts are working on all four wheels but it is running poorly I would suggest just getting another chassis. After all they are only about
Quote from: B.Meldon on May 09, 2016, 10:13
Quote from: Andrew Emery on May 08, 2016, 22:49
Quote from: B.Meldon on May 08, 2016, 17:27
If the chassis has clean wheels and the contacts are working on all four wheels but it is running poorly I would suggest just getting another chassis. After all they are only about
Does anyone know what chassis is used in the Kato GP50 loco as the Langley kit for the Ffestiniog double ended Fairly uses the Bachmann GP 50 chassis but I think that a Kato one could be easer to convert to DCC .
Bernard
The way the Langley kit is constructed I think you will find it very difficult to fit anything other than the recommended chassis.
Brian Meldon
I haven't built one myself, but from what I've seen the Langley kit requires that you remove the motor, drive shafts, bogies, and gear towers, from the Bachmann chassis and install them into a replacement split frame chassis block that comes as part of the kit.
Regards,
Darren.
Thank's for the advice Darren and Brain, I will get the kit first and see what is required.
Regards Bernard
I think that the kit was modified as some time when the Bachmann chassis was changed.
So there are probably two versions of the kit.
I do not know what the differences are.
Brian Meldon