Does anyone have any tips for painting vehicles where the glazing has to be added prior to painting as the roof has to be soldered on, leaving no access to the inside as the chassis is integral?
I can only think of the following:
1) attach roof later with superglue (but accept that it will not be as strong as solder)
2) mask off glazing during painting with maskol (might not work??)
3) make roof removable using some form of friction based attachments on the underside of the roof. (not really a great solution).
any other ideas?
Colin
Hi Colin, i normally go for option no. 1 but use araldite rather than superglue..... strength problems, what strength problems? ;)
I have had bad experiences with using cyanoacrylate (sp?) "superglue" and glazing, particularly in enclosed spaces. I have ended up with "frosted" glass due to the "fumes".
Quote from: GraemeD on March 25, 2009, 20:07
I have ended up with "frosted" glass due to the "fumes".
I have read, and been told, that if you drill a few large holes in an unseen part of the vehicle (usually the floor) that the fumes will escape easier and shouldn't 'fog' the glazing, but I don't know if the effect varies with different materials/glues as I haven't tried it myself. I have been told it works, and seen vehicles it's been done on.
J
An alternative would be to use one of the 'krystal klear' type of thins sold for use by Aircraft modellers.
This stuff is a thick PVA that is used to stick down the clear cockpit canopies on aircraft, but can also be used to form a window within a frame by skinning the glue across the opening. Unlike standard PVA it dries clear, and I have used it to glaze spectical plates on painted locos in the past.
Personally I would steer clear of using superglue of major structural joints (i.e. roof to body) and would stick with aradite for such a job (pun intended! ;D). You'll also have the advantage of being able to adjust things whilst the araldite hardens.