Chris Ward is now doing a WW1 WD 4-6-0 Baldwin body in 6 types
I have one on order Once it arrives i will post photos
http://www.cwrailways.com/baldwins.html
I'd be interested to see what that looks like when it arrives.
It seems like a very keenly priced model!
Chassis?
well the body has arrived the one i whent for is a type 2 to finish the loco you need a Farish old type 08 or J94 chassis
& a set of Baldwin valve gear from RT Models & will also need a bogie which will need scratch building or using a RT Models 4ncp040 & Bemo wheels 5002
The photos show the body as it arrived with out any work
(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5610/15534745482_bdb79fe50d_c.jpg) (https://www.flickr.com/photos/mozzer36/15534745482/)
001 (https://www.flickr.com/photos/mozzer36/15534745482/) by Mozzer models (https://www.flickr.com/people/mozzer36/), on Flickr
(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5614/15347281499_0cf91677f1_c.jpg) (https://www.flickr.com/photos/mozzer36/15347281499/)
002 (https://www.flickr.com/photos/mozzer36/15347281499/) by Mozzer models (https://www.flickr.com/people/mozzer36/), on Flickr
(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5599/15533923415_08893c069d_c.jpg) (https://www.flickr.com/photos/mozzer36/15533923415/)
003 (https://www.flickr.com/photos/mozzer36/15533923415/) by Mozzer models (https://www.flickr.com/people/mozzer36/), on Flickr
(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3944/15510215446_a853d8671c_c.jpg) (https://www.flickr.com/photos/mozzer36/15510215446/)
004 (https://www.flickr.com/photos/mozzer36/15510215446/) by Mozzer models (https://www.flickr.com/people/mozzer36/), on Flickr
the roof is the worse part but 2 mins burnishing it will get it smooth
(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3956/15347279459_6a8f9fde64_c.jpg) (https://www.flickr.com/photos/mozzer36/15347279459/)
005 (https://www.flickr.com/photos/mozzer36/15347279459/) by Mozzer models (https://www.flickr.com/people/mozzer36/), on Flickr
(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3940/15348272180_18fbc3aa8b_c.jpg) (https://www.flickr.com/photos/mozzer36/15348272180/)
006 (https://www.flickr.com/photos/mozzer36/15348272180/) by Mozzer models (https://www.flickr.com/people/mozzer36/), on Flickr
(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3937/15510212546_21f45d6bd9_c.jpg) (https://www.flickr.com/photos/mozzer36/15510212546/)
008 (https://www.flickr.com/photos/mozzer36/15510212546/) by Mozzer models (https://www.flickr.com/people/mozzer36/), on Flickr
Many thanks - that looks incredibly impressive!
Hope you like it ;) ;D
Cheers
Mike
Quote from: mikemorton on October 14, 2014, 12:36
Hope you like it ;) ;D
Cheers
Mike
Yes your Cad work makes this one of the best 3d prints that i have seen
I have given the roof & tank tops a bunish the lines have all but gone
I have also given the body a coat of Halfords Filler Primmer & is daying as i type this
photos to follow
I recently obtained one of Chris' "Libby" bodies which (afaik) uses the same printer. Fresh out of the box it was a bit 'lined' but not as bad as with the machine he started off with, and a bit of work with a burnisher (stainless steel one I use on sterling silver) and a coat of primer has made the line pretty much disappear.
Been working on the bogie using a old Duff chassis to make it fit the body untill the working one arrives
I have a Bogie from a Farish LMS 2P 4-4-0 the whhel base is 15mm & scale one should be 14mm & i am happy with this
I have removed the razed part of the bogie as well as shorting the casting & reshaped the link bar to fit the new type chassis
(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5610/15397006330_871b605f40_c.jpg) (https://www.flickr.com/photos/mozzer36/15397006330/)
001 (https://www.flickr.com/photos/mozzer36/15397006330/) by Mozzer models (https://www.flickr.com/people/mozzer36/), on Flickr
(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5610/15582610955_87253f9985_c.jpg) (https://www.flickr.com/photos/mozzer36/15582610955/)
002 (https://www.flickr.com/photos/mozzer36/15582610955/) by Mozzer models (https://www.flickr.com/people/mozzer36/), on Flickr
& heres how it fits to the chassis
(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3945/15558939786_d2e8e45c49_c.jpg) (https://www.flickr.com/photos/mozzer36/15558939786/)
003 (https://www.flickr.com/photos/mozzer36/15558939786/) by Mozzer models (https://www.flickr.com/people/mozzer36/), on Flickr
(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3951/15558939236_8ae29379a6_c.jpg) (https://www.flickr.com/photos/mozzer36/15558939236/)
004 (https://www.flickr.com/photos/mozzer36/15558939236/) by Mozzer models (https://www.flickr.com/people/mozzer36/), on Flickr
photos with the body to follow
Back to the body
I gave the tank tops & roof a Bunish followed with a coat of Halfords filler primmer I gave this 2 or so days to dry hard I then gave this a rub over with a glassfiber brush & to see how things looked the body got a coat of gray primmer heres how it looks
(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3954/15396548729_80ce58a87c_c.jpg) (https://www.flickr.com/photos/mozzer36/15396548729/)
009 (https://www.flickr.com/photos/mozzer36/15396548729/) by Mozzer models (https://www.flickr.com/people/mozzer36/), on Flickr
(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5603/14962436224_80f87cb70d_c.jpg) (https://www.flickr.com/photos/mozzer36/14962436224/)
005 (https://www.flickr.com/photos/mozzer36/14962436224/) by Mozzer models (https://www.flickr.com/people/mozzer36/), on Flickr
(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5602/15397052438_786fa9b2be_c.jpg) (https://www.flickr.com/photos/mozzer36/15397052438/)
006 (https://www.flickr.com/photos/mozzer36/15397052438/) by Mozzer models (https://www.flickr.com/people/mozzer36/), on Flickr
as the chassis i have is not a full one the body sits with the smokebox a bit low but heres haw it looks on it
(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3934/15580513161_072b6b5a6a_c.jpg) (https://www.flickr.com/photos/mozzer36/15580513161/)
007 (https://www.flickr.com/photos/mozzer36/15580513161/) by Mozzer models (https://www.flickr.com/people/mozzer36/), on Flickr
(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5606/15396549969_490de75ec5_c.jpg) (https://www.flickr.com/photos/mozzer36/15396549969/)
008 (https://www.flickr.com/photos/mozzer36/15396549969/) by Mozzer models (https://www.flickr.com/people/mozzer36/), on Flickr
Later today i hope to give the body a coat of halfords satin black
For those that did not know the GF four wheel bogies are available as a spare part for
& here she is in black
(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3950/14964972564_2eee7408de_c.jpg) (https://www.flickr.com/photos/mozzer36/14964972564/)
010 (https://www.flickr.com/photos/mozzer36/14964972564/) by Mozzer models (https://www.flickr.com/people/mozzer36/), on Flickr
(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3938/15585709985_4d320d2736_c.jpg) (https://www.flickr.com/photos/mozzer36/15585709985/)
011 (https://www.flickr.com/photos/mozzer36/15585709985/) by Mozzer models (https://www.flickr.com/people/mozzer36/), on Flickr
(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3942/15399710217_2f4d933d3a_c.jpg) (https://www.flickr.com/photos/mozzer36/15399710217/)
012 (https://www.flickr.com/photos/mozzer36/15399710217/) by Mozzer models (https://www.flickr.com/people/mozzer36/), on Flickr
(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3955/15399093849_8587da9f62_c.jpg) (https://www.flickr.com/photos/mozzer36/15399093849/)
013 (https://www.flickr.com/photos/mozzer36/15399093849/) by Mozzer models (https://www.flickr.com/people/mozzer36/), on Flickr
You may have already had this thought (sorry if you have) but it might be worthwhile to do something about the gap between the front of the Farish chassis and the Baldwin's cylinders, as on the real loco this space would be filled with the loco frames (bar frames were used on the WD Baldwins afaik).
I wonder if that's why the smoke box is sitting low, as the frames would extend to the front buffer beam and provide a bit of depth between the underside of the front footplate and the topside of the bogie that currently is not there.
Julien,
What is missing, is the cylinder moulding, which will fill this area. I recall that Brian is using the RT resin ones, with the "working" valve gear, so this is yet to come. You are correct that the cylinders will help set the height of the front.
Quote from: JulienW on October 21, 2014, 09:59
You may have already had this thought (sorry if you have) but it might be worthwhile to do something about the gap between the front of the Farish chassis and the Baldwin's cylinders, as on the real loco this space would be filled with the loco frames (bar frames were used on the WD Baldwins afaik).
I wonder if that's why the smoke box is sitting low, as the frames would extend to the front buffer beam and provide a bit of depth between the underside of the front footplate and the topside of the bogie that currently is not there.
Well Julien there is actually quite a big empty gap on the prototype behind the cylinders!
The top of the bar frames are below the level of the top of the driving wheels (the spring hangers are slightly above) and the frames then thin more between the front driving wheel and the cylinder casting. The end result is that you can see quite a lot of daylight through the loco behind the cylinders under the boiler.
There is another large visible gap below the boiler between the tanks and the cab. but this is where the GF motor is on this model.
Brian Meldon
Quote from: JulienW on October 21, 2014, 09:59
You may have already had this thought (sorry if you have) but it might be worthwhile to do something about the gap between the front of the Farish chassis and the Baldwin's cylinders, as on the real loco this space would be filled with the loco frames (bar frames were used on the WD Baldwins afaik).
I wonder if that's why the smoke box is sitting low, as the frames would extend to the front buffer beam and provide a bit of depth between the underside of the front footplate and the topside of the bogie that currently is not there.
once i have the powered chassis i will be filling the gap
edit
looking at drawings there is a gap there as Brian says there should be a gap from the Cylinders to the cab under the boiler
Quote from: Elmgate on October 21, 2014, 10:09
Julien,
What is missing, is the cylinder moulding, which will fill this area. I recall that Brian is using the RT resin ones, with the "working" valve gear, so this is yet to come. You are correct that the cylinders will help set the height of the front.
you only use the etch from RT models not the cast replacment cylinders for the Gem loco
its getting on to 3 months since i have done anything to this loco as payed work & me putting of working on the valvegear has got in the way but i am today trying to rivit the valvegear togetter
after rushing once i got home yestoday things went to pot so gave in for the night
But Today i have got it all finished Still need to fill the tanks with Liquid lead but do not have any
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7581/15627802553_97429b944f_c.jpg) (https://www.flickr.com/photos/mozzer36/15627802553/)
001 (https://www.flickr.com/photos/mozzer36/15627802553/) by Mozzer models (https://www.flickr.com/people/mozzer36/), on Flickr
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7524/15625270554_5dea4ec22c_c.jpg) (https://www.flickr.com/photos/mozzer36/15625270554/)
002 (https://www.flickr.com/photos/mozzer36/15625270554/) by Mozzer models (https://www.flickr.com/people/mozzer36/), on Flickr
(https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8669/16061841757_0214bd5d41_c.jpg) (https://www.flickr.com/photos/mozzer36/16061841757/)
003 (https://www.flickr.com/photos/mozzer36/16061841757/) by Mozzer models (https://www.flickr.com/people/mozzer36/), on Flickr
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7563/16246848602_fd252ac915_c.jpg) (https://www.flickr.com/photos/mozzer36/16246848602/)
004 (https://www.flickr.com/photos/mozzer36/16246848602/) by Mozzer models (https://www.flickr.com/people/mozzer36/), on Flickr
Well done, Brian - the valve gear looks good, and have you straightened the cab roof or am I mistaken? Nice finish too.
Quote from: tedp on January 11, 2015, 17:37
Well done, Brian - the valve gear looks good, and have you straightened the cab roof or am I mistaken? Nice finish too.
No the cab has less of a kink in it as have been slowly bending it back in to shape
Just need the Liquid lead to arrive so i can add weight
I have done some weathering to the loco & picked out the vac pipes etc
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7529/16271772482_e7af656c63_c.jpg) (https://www.flickr.com/photos/mozzer36/16271772482/)
001 (https://www.flickr.com/photos/mozzer36/16271772482/) by Mozzer models (https://www.flickr.com/people/mozzer36/), on Flickr
Hello Brian, your Baldwin looks really good.
I have not yet attempted any loco kits, and would like to ask: does the valve gear (which is so impressive) come pre-assembled?
And how do you fix the valve gear to the GF?
Quote from: Harry Mantheakis on January 14, 2015, 13:22
Hello Brian, your Baldwin looks really good.
I have not yet attempted any loco kits, and would like to ask: does the valve gear (which is so impressive) come pre-assembled?
And how do you fix the valve gear to the GF?
the valve gear for this loco neesd riveting togetter which is just hitting the rivits with a small hammer a bit at a time till there is movment on the riveit but the rivit will not fall out
As to the way it attaches to the GF chassis it uses the same pin that holds the GF rods on to the center wheel which you remove before soldering the valve link to then just push it back in
Quote from: Mozzer on January 14, 2015, 13:41
the valve gear for this loco neesd riveting togetter which is just hitting the rivits with a small hammer a bit at a time till there is movment on the riveit but the rivit will not fall out
As to the way it attaches to the GF chassis it uses the same pin that holds the GF rods on to the center wheel which you remove before soldering the valve link to then just push it back in
Woo... the riveting does not sound like something a novice should attempt - but thank you for the explanation.
Quote from: Harry Mantheakis on January 14, 2015, 13:52
Quote from: Mozzer on January 14, 2015, 13:41
the valve gear for this loco neesd riveting togetter which is just hitting the rivits with a small hammer a bit at a time till there is movment on the riveit but the rivit will not fall out
As to the way it attaches to the GF chassis it uses the same pin that holds the GF rods on to the center wheel which you remove before soldering the valve link to then just push it back in
Woo... the riveting does not sound like something a novice should attempt - but thank you for the explanation.
with the rivets from RT Models its very eazy sound a lot harder than it is
Thanks Brian - I might give it a try then!
Heres a Video of the loco
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sgIJSnRdeP4&feature=youtu.be
It is a very attractive loco.