I've been working on this loco for what feels like ages.. Working might not be the right word though.. ;)
So last night I thought I would try some lining on the main part of the tank.
(https://forum.009society.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi1301.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fag104%2FSjrixon%2F009%2F2014-05-19204626_zpsa53d717a.jpg&hash=a2eb721121ddfb3788024db13b167646d9497138) (http://s1301.photobucket.com/user/Sjrixon/media/009/2014-05-19204626_zpsa53d717a.jpg.html)
It wasn't as easy as I thought it might be! I started by marking it out in a light pencil, I then couldn't find a rubber and the camera was quite critical of the loco. :(
The camera is always the worst critic. Thankfully the eye is much more forgiving. Don't worry about the odd lumps and bumps!
Managed to find the rubber and remove the pencil marks. I've then re-blackened the lines a little more, touched up the paint work and also added some spectacle rings to the front.
Roof still needs finishing, the driver and fireman are coming along, I also have hand rails and name plates to look at.
Taking a picture from a nicer distance, much better :)
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A little more lining and the first hand rail going on.. That was really quite fiddly to do and not very easy to glue.. Any tips?
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Thread two handrail knobs onto a longer length of wire than you need.
You may find it helpful to put a small piece of BluTak on one or both ends to prevent the knobs falling off.
Seat the knobs into the holes in the loco cab (or wherever).
A drop of superglue from a pin will fix the knobs on the holes.
A drop of superglue where the wire passes through the knobs will fix the wire in place.
Trim off excess wire.
With practice you can save on waste wire by sliding the wire through the knobs after they have been fixed in place, so the you only have to trim at one end. (I don't bother - I am more concerned that the wire will slide completely out!)
Hope this helps
I think the choice of 4mm handrail knobs is far too large & unsightly and prefer to use just bent wire fixed in place with a scrap piece of card packing to keep the rail square to the sides along its length. When set, simply remove the card.
... and of course you can get different sizes of handrail knobs! Short is often adequate, IMHO
I think it is often the size of the ball rather than the length. I guess they are generally used on standard gauge locos where being overscale is not so obvious.
My impression is there are two schools of thought: include the detail even if it is overscale because you know it is there and it will look odd if left out, or leave it out because it is near enough invisible.
Selective blindness is a must. People may quibble that the wheel spacing of a chassis might be incorrect completely ignoring the fact that from one side at least there is perhaps a dirty great set of gears clearly visible between them.
Hi
Try smaller hand rail knobs, 4mm scale ones are probably too big for our size locos. BH Enterprises do a small one (they are primarily an N gauge supplier). They're available as a pack of 20, P/N BHE 312, take 0.33mm wire. This size wire may sound small it is about 1 inch diameter in 4mm scale.
Peter
Thanks - that's a good lead. I've relied just on what is available at exhibitions and that is generally 4 mm stuff.
Thanks.. But I don't really want to change the hand rails, or buy others, more cost :(.. I might get a chance to look again tonight, see how it looks in the flesh, rather than the picture.
Thanks for the tip on how to attach them. That sounds a little easier
Scott - they look OK to me! On a smaller loco they might be over-powering.
Thanks . I've not made any progress though, sun came out so the gardening called.
I had another look at handrails last night. I'm happy with them, they look quite nice to be honest!
So I drilled out the holes to fit the others and also repainted the dome, I was never happy with the finish of the paint I used, so I bought some humbrol to repaint it.
I might actually finish it one day soon!
Any ideas on how to glaze the loco? I like my spectical glass, but I think it would look better with glass in.
Cheers
I think that the key is what you use to attach the spectacle glasses to the model.
Johnson's Kear floor polish (as I understand it, basically thinned acrylic varnish) is/was renowned in the model making world for uses ranging from coating radio control aircraft canopies to various model railway ones.
http://georgedentmodelmaker.blogspot.co.uk/2013/01/klear-ing-things-up.html (http://georgedentmodelmaker.blogspot.co.uk/2013/01/klear-ing-things-up.html)
I guess any good quality gloss acrylic varnish, suitably thinned will do.
Avoid Cyanoacrylate Superglue at all costs. It can leave a 'frosted' look to the surface.
There is also Micro Krystal Klear:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SZ_ggnLYkPM (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SZ_ggnLYkPM)
If you are using thinned varnish to fix your 'glass', it doesn't matter if it gets on the visible surface 'glass'. Just make sure the whole surface has a thin covering and don't let dust get on it as it drys.
It's up to you whether you glue the spectacle plate to inside of the model or have the patience (and eyesight, and coordination) to cut tiny circles to size!
You might get away with using a desk hole punch to cut circles, but they tend to distort the plastic. A brand new one, never used on paper may be better. There are also leather punches (e.g. Hobbycraft) that are likely to be better.
As for plastic, then any good quality packaging should do it, or a sheet of overhead projector acetate (don't use the stuff for inkjet printers as the surface is not as glossy).
Edit: as always, practise on a piece of scrap first!
I would suggest either Krystal Kleer (as Graeme mentioned) or Deluxe's Glue and Glaze for the spectical glasses
For 'real' glass look out for some microscope cover slides. Can be a bit of a sod to cut in a strait line, let alone get a curve. The alternative would be to try one of the 'microglaze' tings - these are essentially a PVA glue that one uses to form a film over the window opening which then dries clear - I've used Delux Materials "Glue & Glaze" to good effect.
Oh.. I like the idea of microglaze :)
Google here I come!
Handrails are complete.. I've also test fitted the roof and the driver is have a play.
Focus is a little tight, but I was playing the the SLR :)
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I hope I'll be able to make mine look even half as good!
Cheers Tom :) Going to push to finish it now.. I want to get the name plates on and some gloss varnish, then I'll decide if it wants to have a top coat of matt.
Is it finished??
Added the whistle, the driver and fireman are in and a little lead in the front. I've given it a coat of klear, with the intention of also having a 2nd coat of matt varnish, but I'm thinking it looks good as it is..
Comments?
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Very nice! Well done!
How did you fit the Kato chassis to the CW footplate?
Greetings,
I personally like a semi-gloss look, I have noticed that the real locos in Great Britain all were well kept. Wiped down and kept clean so a semi gloss shows just enough shine to look right.
Andre Anderson
Portland Oregon USA
Thanks.. She is still in the same condition as I still like it.. The kato chassis just drops in and I've used bluetac to hold it there
Looks great . Maybe a small link to the whistle from the cab?
A point no one else seems to have made is, sorry, but the handrail is in the wrong place. If you think of the purpose oh handrails, to assist movement into or on the loco, this handrail is set too high. It would in reality be beside the cab opening, to assist climbing onto the footplate.
Rod,
You are no doubt correct about the position of the handrail, but in fairness to Scott, the print comes with "dimples" moulded in to the side of the cab indicating where to drill holes for the handrail knobs, and they are positioned as you can see them in the photos. So the vast majority (including mine) have the handrails there.
Frank
It's the same on "Growler" on the web site:
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http://www.cwrailways.com/009-ng.html (http://www.cwrailways.com/009-ng.html)
(I assumed the lower one was for grabbing when climbing up and the upper one was for steadying yourself when climbing down! :D )
Interesting, I'd never thought about where they should be.. As you say, dimples guided where I put it.
As for a link from the whistle to the cab, I would worry about damaging it now!