I was recommended to try DG couplings while at the Ilton show and I immediately bought a pack. I looked up the assembly process on the web and it was very well written up. They are indeed very good and a lot cheaper than Microtrains couplers so I set abut converting all my stock. However, the measurements on the web for a loop-making jig (7.5 x 5mm)are too big for 009/TT couplers, presumably OK for 00 though. I made a jig 3.5 x 5mm to wind the loop wire around and as per the web writeup, used florists soft iron wire for the whole loop and dropper instead of soldering the phosphor bronze and steel wire provided. However, I found that although the loops fit the coupler etch nicely when made 3.5mm wide, my stock with body mounted DGs tended to derail on sharp radius curves due to the loops being too narrow to allow the overhang of the body. Having a look at the Minitrains couplers which work fine, they are about 5-6 mm at the outside end and taper to 3.5 at the mounting. So copying that and making the DG loop wider at the front allowed the pulling hook to travel sideways on curves and avoided the derailments I had experienced.
Chris Wright
Hi Chris.
I've used DG couplings on my 009 layout for some time. I use the TT/009 size, type D, but have probably picked up some of the Type A (for N / 2 mm scale) as the only difference I can see is that they are etched from a thinner metal. Certainly the loop sizes are the same and model signal engineering sell jigs to make the loops, and measuring one of the jigs I have it is essentially a brass bar 3.5 mm by 5 mm which the phosphor bronze wire is wrapped around.
Latham's Brewery has some tight curves (down to 9", possibly even 6" or less in places!) but I have not had much (if any) issues with couplings locking and causing derailments even when propelling stock. I should add though that I have curved the buffer faces which should reduce the chances of buffers locking, and I also try to fit them with a minimal overhang so that on the layout's curves the business end of the couplings are not too far off the track centreline.
From my own experience these couplings need to be carefully mounted so that they are all central to the stock and all at the same height. I have also had some problems where the tails were left too long and caught on the railheads on points so it might be worth checking these. Whilst I have yet to try using a ferrous wire to make the loop and dropper in one piece I wonder if the florists wire might be too heavy and / or too soft and when I plan to experiment I'll probably use the fine steel wire that is included in the coupling kit, but the combination of phosphor bronze loop and soldered on steel dropper (though soldering the brass plated steel wire found in earlier kits is easier) has worked reasonably well despite the odd dropper dropping off!
Hi, It's the overhang of the body mounting on the brass Gilpin ore cars that I made that caused the problem. The ore cars are heavy so they tended to pull a lightweight loco tender sideways and derail it. Widening and curving the front of the loops to match the Minitrains ones cured the problem.
The florists wire is just right for the loops, stiff enough to hold their shape but easy to work with and saves the problem of joining the PB to the steel wire. I did need to very slightly open the holes in the etch to allow it through, being slightly thicker than the phosphor bronze wire supplied due to having a plastic coating. I agree the height is critical and I need to make a jig to ensure that all future ones are the same as the ones I have made so far. I have not fitted loops to the locos but have fitted the remote uncoupling latches. I have tried a permanent magnet which works OK but there is a risk of unwanted uncoupling so I will probably fit electro magnets. Have you any recommendations on this?
Chris Wright
I use microtrains with mixed results but this is primarily for the same critical reasons as the DG ie height and central postion. Apart from the problem common to all buckeye type couplers, that of curves the latteral movement of the wheelsets is a problem in HOn30/009. I must admit though that if the critical issues are essentially the same cost issues would not influence my decision and I happily buy assembled microtrains couplers
Chris seems to be changing on cost grounds alone, is this the case?
If I could find a realistic looking alternative to microtrains that was reliable I would change. I have delayed changing the couplings on my new Minitrains but even with them some loops need tweaking to ensure they are at the correct height and are level latterally as if not coupling and uncoupling is problematic
I am quite happy with the limitations of microtrains on my home layout as I can fiddle around with my toothpick forever but on my prospective exhibition layout such fiddling is not good enough for me
I have to admit age is part of my problem and its no use just blaming the kit
Peter Smith
Quote from: Chris Wright on January 21, 2014, 18:58
I have tried a permanent magnet which works OK but there is a risk of unwanted uncoupling so I will probably fit electro magnets. Have you any recommendations on this?
Chris Wright
I tend to use permanent magnets only where I need to uncouple every time, e.g. at the end of the terminal platform. Otherwise, I place electromagnets at the entrance to a fan of sidings etc., and use the delay feature to uncouple between the required vehicles, and push the stock into place.
Quote from: Chris Wright on January 21, 2014, 18:58
Hi, It's the overhang of the body mounting on the brass Gilpin ore cars that I made that caused the problem. The ore cars are heavy so they tended to pull a lightweight loco tender sideways and derail it. Widening and curving the front of the loops to match the Minitrains ones cured the problem.
The florists wire is just right for the loops, stiff enough to hold their shape but easy to work with and saves the problem of joining the PB to the steel wire. I did need to very slightly open the holes in the etch to allow it through, being slightly thicker than the phosphor bronze wire supplied due to having a plastic coating. I agree the height is critical and I need to make a jig to ensure that all future ones are the same as the ones I have made so far. I have not fitted loops to the locos but have fitted the remote uncoupling latches. I have tried a permanent magnet which works OK but there is a risk of unwanted uncoupling so I will probably fit electro magnets. Have you any recommendations on this?
Chris Wright
Making a coupling jig is fairly easy. RT Models sell a cast resin item (NGWC010 for
Good input, thanks. I have previously been using Microtrains couplers but this requires some considerable surgery to some HOn30/009 locos and it seemed a good idea to go to the DGs as they give the same remote uncoupling operation but still use the original couplers on the Minitrains, Liliput and other locos. They are also much cheaper. I am now using DGs for freight but retained the original Minitrains couplers on the coaches which won't be shunted.
Chris Wright