In the topic on building a 3d printed saddle tank (http://www.009society.com/forum/index.php?topic=1365.msg8729#msg8729) I described how to produce a simple but effective 009 model using one of Tebee's entry level models and a Kato chassis. I tried to show how to smooth the surface of the grainy 3d print and make a basic model.
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Today I found a little time to make a start with detailing the model. Although I think it is something any new modeller should try, I decided to start a new thread, as this is a little more advanced than painting the basic body shell.
The first thing I feel would improve the model is lining. When I built my Jinty bashes I already used a black felt tip pen to line out the models. This does limit the lining colour to black - any light colours are almost out of the question, although I once used red on my Backwoods Campbeltown Barclay (http://www.009dutch.nl/cdr/main/foto/motivepower/loco/pict0373.jpg).
However, I decided to use black to show how it improves the model. A steel ruler is used for the straight lines:
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Don't worry about overshooting the edges as these are easily corrected using a small brush and the body colour. I do so all the time. It's no more difficult than drawing a straight line on a piece of paper. The only thing to watch is you are working parallel to the edges of the model. And if you make an error, simply paint it out, let it dry for a day and try again.
Next are the difficult lines on the saddle tank. Difficult? No, not really provided you use a strip of plastic to bend round the tank, and draw a line along it:
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Now we have got a loco that is lined out, with some overshoot on the corners of the lining. As I said before, simply paint his out and you'll have a neatly lined-out loco.
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Make sure the lower and upper lines on the skirt and the hinged covers are all in one line. Simply lay the ruler along the footplate and draw short lines along it.
Meanwhile you will have seen some more detail. This consists of whitemetal parts which I left unpainted to show you what was added. Springs, lamps, sand boxes, a mechanical lubricator on the right hand footplate, and a whistle. Most of them are fairly overscale, but who cares... we have to fill a big space under the boiler! The huge sand boxes were made of left-overs of a Chivers 'cane engine'. The springs are of undefined origin. I cut them down, glued two to the footplate and two to the chassis to represent the actual location of driving wheels just ahead of the firebox. The lubricator is a cut down 00 axle box with some odds and ends added.
I also found a set of very tiny etched oval plates that do well as builder's plates. We cannot read them anyway, which is a good thing as this is a freelance loco.
Here is the intermediate result. Note the pretty effect of the lining on the skirt and motion covers - simple lining makes a vast difference to the basic model.
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To be continued.
looks very good Ted.
It really brings it to life.
Looking good Ted, and lined a lot easier than the decals I put on the "Travis" loco for Glen Ogle.
Regards,
BrianT.
Thanks, all! Despite all sorts of distractions I managed to do some more detail work on the loco today.
I removed the steps from the Kato chassis and fitted styrene filler blocks to represent a buffer beam. Then I decided to paint a crew (Langley) and model a very simple representation of a boiler backhead. The crew was fitted out with a black uniform cap and trousers, and a blue jacket for the driver and a brown one for the fireman. They both have a red neckcloth to keep out the grime and coal dust, and keep warm in the draughty cab. The backhead was modelled from 1mm lead sheet, a remnant of a roof repair. Perhaps an unusual material to model in, but it adds weight and it can easily be cut with scissors and a sharp knife. An alternative would have been styrene sheet. There are two sheets stuck on to one another. The rear one has an extension at the top which carries two N gauge buffers representing valve handwheels, and a section of aluminium tube representing a pressure gauge.
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On the backhead a square has been stuck representing a fire door, and two slivers of lead for the gauge glasses. The regulator handle is a bent piece of wire. The backhead is extremely simple, but as it can hardly be seen past the crew, this will suffice. I didn't even model a reverser handle or a handbrake. The cab is very full as it is.
Note that the valve 'handwheels' have been painted red first, then adorned with a few black dots representing holes in them. They are overscale, but it is the simplest form of adding detail to a tiny loco cab, which I have used for many years.
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The final photo is a very close-up view of the backhead stuck inside the cab. The cab detail includes a tiny sliver of paper stuck to the rear of the 'pressure gauge' to enable the interior of the gauge to be painted white. This kind of make-and-mend allows very simple detail work using every piece of scrap you have available. There is nothing difficult about it, just stick together whatever you have on the workbench - offcuts, a scrap of paper, etc. I can recommend this approach as it is great fun to do.
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Here the driver is about to board the loco once and for all. I bent his legs a little after the photo was made, so he would fit in. Then I wedged him inside the cab, with his head under the top of the entrance, and applied some superglue.
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Meanwhile I painted the sandboxes and the springs. Eagle-eyed readers may notice I moved the rear springs a little aft - they were in the wrong place. The fireman had one foot cut off to clear the chassis, then was wedged in and glued the same way as the driver. I also fitted the porthole window panes, but these are invisible on the photos.
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Detail work remaining is adding coal, porthole rims, safety chains, handrails, painting the whistle and the rear lamp, and lining the sandboxes. And the loco needs a number and possibly a name.
Very satisfying, Ted. I'm tempted by the lining but I suspect black lining isn't going to be a great success on a black loco like 'Creech' ;)
David.
You might consider straw, red or white paper lining using the 'fag paper' method (http://www.009society.com/forum/index.php?topic=1136.msg7863#msg7863) which I described when building the Leek & Manifold Kitson.
By the way, I forgot to think of a detail that would be very visible under the boiler of my saddle tank: reverser and sanding rods.
Today, after another batch of distractions, I had another go at the saddle tank.
First I fitted porthole rims, using wire which I wound round a brush handle a few times, then cut through and flattened into four circles. I didn't bother flattening the wire in the vice as this would only distort the rims and I think they look all right as they are.
Next, I added some coal in the bunkers, tipping in a little and glueing it down the same way you glue ballast: PVA glue, water and a drop of soap.
I lined out the sandboxes and painted the whistle and the rear lamp, then fitted tiny wire studs in the holes in the Kato chassis that once contained buffers. These were then fitted with lengths of chain, hung from the studs and fixed with a drop of cyano glue.
Finally, I made cab handrails. I bent four lengths of steel wire into a staple shape with short studs and melted them into the cab sides using a small soldering iron and tweezers. This has to be done with some care. I position the wire lengths with the sharp ends on the plastic side, then gently put the tip of my small Antex on one end until it sinks in all of its own.
I don't apply pressure with the tweezers or the soldering iron as this may cause the wire to tilt and go out of line. The other end then follows, and I use one half of the tweezers under the wire to determine the distance from the cab side - about one mm.
Here is the result:
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What now remains is number plates and a reversing rod. And I need to touch up the elbow of the fireman who somehow collected a hole in his jacket!
As we all know, there are more advanced kits based on 3D printing, including hybrid ones incorporating etched parts that can be made into very good models.
But as Tom Bell (Tebee) has said, his new range is aimed at entry level modellers, and I think it is a successful idea.
The basic finishing process of a 3D model is not difficult, as shown in this project and by other forum members. Richard (cnw6847) is working on the side tank version (http://www.009society.com/forum/index.php?topic=1379.msg8859#msg8859), and Brian Twigg (gtmspyder) has just completed his Chris Ward 3D models (http://www.009society.com/forum/index.php?topic=1123.msg8781#msg8781). Just look at the basic saddle tank after it was painted, which already looks neat enough:
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I think lining it out was what made the greatest difference. Using a fine felt tip pen on a light background colour is quite straightforward if you use a ruler. It's no more difficult than drawing a square on to a piece of paper:
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Final detailing is even easier if you have a tray of whitemetal parts that can be scrounged from other kits, or bought as a bag of spare parts at most exhibitions. Most of it is just a question of pre-painting the parts and glueing them in place.
I am well satisfied with the little loco - it will be taken into the C&DR stock list for light branch or industrial work. I don't object to running it beside near-scale models as it doesn't look out of place:
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I decided to pose the new tram loco together with its older stablemate and the branch coach, and I think they make a pretty pair! Actually, the saddle tank is better...
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This then concludes this little episode!
Yesterday the new saddle tank was on its first revenue working. The branch goods, consisting of a low sided wagon with a huge packing case, trailing Ian Turner's SAR brake (which is the regular branch goods brake vehicle) leaving Dunalistair:
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And here the train is running on to the branch at Rae Bridge, whilst the 2-8-0 waits for the right-of-way with the coal train.
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it looks great on the layout.
I look forward to seeing it on one of your excellent videos :)
Any idea what the pen was?
I'm afraid I cannot read what once was on the casing. It's a very fine indelible hard felt tip. Slightly over half a mm, I would say.
Thanks. I'm going hunting for some permanent markers.
I have a Stabilo "Write-4-all" permanent marker, which I have used on a coach. It's about 0.5mm wide.
This is just for information, of course. Other pens are available....
I have used Stabilo Lumocolour pens - The best by far for this type of job is the Extra Fine point - probably exactly the same as Hugh refers to but under a different name. Lumocolour pens are designed for use with Overhead Projectors in classrooms/presentations etc - largely superceded by computer projectors as "Death by Powerpoint" has generally taken over from "Death by Vufoil" in classrooms, lecture theatres and boardrooms but I think the pens can still be obtained from specialist stationery suppliers. Use the Permanent Ink pens rather than water soluble ones.
Tip - if you muck up a lettering/lining job using permanent ink marker pens, wait for it to dry then gently rub with a slightly damp cloth or cotton bud that has been dipped into a well used ashtray - if you can find one nowadays! Then gently rub off the damp ash residue from your piece of work with a clean cotton bud and you should find that the gentle abrasive effect of the ash has removed your botched marker pen job without damaging the paintwork underneath.
Although I gave up smoking 7 years (plus 4 months, 1 day 18 hours and 57 minutes) ago - (miss having a fag - not at all...........), my dedicated and hugely patient lady wife has continued to puff away, purely so that I have access to a used ashtray when I botch up a detailing job - or that's what she tells me anyway and who am I to dare to contradict?
Mick