I have a couple of old whitemetal kits I would like to restore and repaint. I would like to separate them to the component parts. Does anyone know how to do this?
Danny,
It depends on how they have been assembled. If by low-melt solder, then you can immerse in very hot water, and the solder should let go. I believe that whitemetal does not melt until above 100 degrees, but take no responsibility for this, as I have not tried it myself!
If glued, it depends on what glue was used. Contact adhesives (e.g. Bostic clear) sometimes s t r e t c h apart if you pull at the joints, but again, damage may be caused to small parts. Some people have used brake fluid, which also acts as a paint stripper, but I am not sure which adhesives this is effective on.
Sorry if it seems I am not totally helpful, let's hope someone else has better information; but please post what method of assembly was used.
If you submerge the body in methylated spirits overnight it will remove any enamel paints and dissolve most types of glue, but it will not harm any plastic parts or even most factory paint work.
On old kits the normal thing is that in the morning they just fall apart and the paint just peals off. (For stubborn bits I use cocktail sticks.)
This is the normal purple stuff so it stinks and evaporates in the open air. Because of this I use an old sealable plastic container for this use.
If it is gloss enamel paint it will just flake off. But in some cases depending on the surface matt or satin enamels are harder to remove.
It will however not easily remove acrylic paint.
Brian Meldon
Thanks for the suggestions, its very helpful. They seem to have been epoxied, as there is some yellowish dry glue (probably epoxy) round the edge. I can't be sure as I didn't build them.
I have had battered whitemetal bodies purchased cheaply and have successfully got them back to component parts by putting the body into a bowl of boiling water and leaving it for several hours. Most parts that have been epoxied have then come apart either by simply falling off or with only gentle persuasion. Stubborn bits of dried glue can be removed at this stage with a wooden toothpick or cocktail stick, or a fine blade screwdriver.
Mick
Some will regard this as heresy but all the posts so far seem to make a pretty good argument for not using epoxy, apart from the fact that I can never get it to work! Superglue seems the best bet, it's more or less instant, which means you have to get it right first time, but comes apart readily with minimal heat and in any event it has relatively little sheer strength. By that I mean it will usually lever apart fairly easily, although with white metal this is rarely possible. I tried low melt soldering white metal one time, even going as far as buying a (very) expensive temperature controlled solder station and didn't think it was worth the effort involved. On top of which I still remain paranoid about melting white metal parts. All of which is not strictly relevant to the question posed but may be of some interest.
Rod
I would add to Rod's good advice above that I almost exclusively use Superglue Gel for whitemetal and any other surface that liquid poly or mekpak won't work on. Grab time is longer than liquid superglue and it also has filling properties so you can get a good bond with a less than perfect joint whereas liquid superglue needs a very good if not perfect joint before it will work.
Mick
been using Devcon epoxy for so long I never think of anything else; keep expecting it to disappear from the shelves. Just cant get on with superglue, it always glues everything I dont want it too including my fingers and wont stick those things I do. I dont make kits with a view to subsequent disassembly! So like most things in the hobby find what works for you and stick with it (joke intended).
Peter Smith