This question could have gone into any of several categories, but I'm preparing to build my first brass loco so I chose this one . (It's a Backwoods Miniatures Husdwell Clarke 0-6-0 Diesel. So far I've only seen scans of the instructions..., and they're daunting but I like a challenge and I'll have a lot of spare evenings to do it right slowly.)
What is the best soldering iron, for fiddly bits? Will the same iron do for electrics?
Good luck! I use a Weller temperature controlled soldering station, grossly overpriced and I wouldn't but another one. The ordinary
I have just bought a soldering rework station with 60 Watt temperature controlled iron as well as a temperature controlled hot air gun. The soldering iron has 10 different bits and can be set to be between 200 & 400 degC and the hot air gun has 3 nozzles and similar performance.
I intend to try using the hot air gun to laminate etched brass parts together using solder paste rather than using the soldering iron which can nudge parts out of alignment.
So far the iron has been a lot better than my cheap mains powered iron and the hot air gun makes using heat-shrink tubing a doddle. :D
I bought the unit off of eBay for
I tend to agree with Rod.
I think it is more about the flux and the solder than the iron.
I know several very skilled modellers that just use a normal 25w iron with a fine bit.
However I would recommend paying the extra for silicon mains lead as these are far more flexible and make life a lot easier when soldering.
Brian Meldon
I would avoid bargain basement soldering irons. They rarely produce the quantity of heat (at the bit) that their wattage would suggest. Also obtaining spare bits for an un-branded iron may be difficult and they are the ones that have bits with the shortest life.
An Antex XS25 is a good simple no-nonsense iron for about
All I can tell you about 'expensive' soldering irons is that in the six years I've had my Weller I've had to replace the bit four or five times, once replacing the whole iron, which only lasted two years. I now have a 'long life' bit which is already showing signs of wear. A soldering iron is not a particularly high tech bit of kit, it either gets hot enough or it doesn't. At about
I built my Backwoods Hudswell diesel with a 25 watt Weller Iron, 145 degree C melting solder and 10% phosphoric acid flux. The same iron (with a finer bit) will do electrical work too. Often the problem with soldering is not enough heat (too low a wattage) rather than too much.
This is my built beastie...
(https://forum.009society.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Ffarm5.staticflickr.com%2F4061%2F4327598686_673567f642_z.jpg%3Fzz%3D1&hash=cc7274559341b4c8edc590a93ada88093407b19b)
If I may go slightly off topic I'll pass on a tip from my building of the kit. In the instructions (at least the ones from when I bought the kit) it is suggested that one bends the side frames down from the stretchers then breaks off (by folding back) one frame to fit the axles, wheels, etc. before soldering the frame back on. The problem with this is that with heating one side frame twice the chassis ends up taking on a slight curve as the heated frame contacts. The way around this is to have two 'L' shapes, each of a frame with a stretcher at the end, so that when soldering heat is applied equally to both frames and the thermal expansion / contactions are evened out.
That said I built mine in accordance with the instructions and whilst the curve is noticeable it does not appear to affect the running. But then I also fitted the biggest flywheel I could to the motor which may help! It is also a very good introduction to building etched loco kits but as with doing anything for the first time it pays to take your time.
If you would like to see the loco in the flesh (should that be 'metal'?) I'm exhibiting at the Wiltshire Group members' day at Pewsey on the 10th and can bring it with me if you are going to be there.
I am surprised to hear of bits wearing out so quickly. Students are very hard on tools and despite being told to treat them with respect I'm sure some irons go on when power is turned on in the lab at start of day and off when the big red button is hit at the end of the day. Of course for electronic work they are not using acid flux but even so I'm not aware of going through a large number of bits.
There is a piece here on soldering iron bit life:
http://www.adafruit.com/datasheets/hakkotips.pdf (http://www.adafruit.com/datasheets/hakkotips.pdf)
I was once tempted to change the shape of a plated bit by filing it. Never again. Solder dissolves s the copper away and the bit rapidly becomes concave.
I use one of the brass "brillo pad" affairs rather than a damp sponge and a little pot of tip cleaner that has lasted me for years.
http://www.rapidonline.com/SearchResults.aspx?kw=solder+tip+cleaner (http://www.rapidonline.com/SearchResults.aspx?kw=solder+tip+cleaner)
(https://forum.009society.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.rapidonline.com%2Fcatalogueimages%2Fproduct%2FS85-0626P01WS.jpg&hash=f7c6c3abff1671eb9bf2aa89016a6e8d326e0224)
(https://forum.009society.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.rapidonline.com%2Fcatalogueimages%2Fmodule%2FM074867P01WS.jpg&hash=da3fe5ee9dd301e509c596721c7c75673be26eb6)
I recall reading that you should not use the same bit for low-temperature solders and "normal" solder. I can't remember why. I think it has to do with the markedly different mix of metals in the various solders.
Quote from: hughn on August 03, 2013, 19:53
I recall reading that you should not use the same bit for low-temperature solders and "normal" solder. I can't remember why. I think it has to do with the markedly different mix of metals in the various solders.
I've read that too I'm sure. It might be in either Brewster's book (it is great to see that they are still in existence):
http://www.soldering-shop.co.uk/ (http://www.soldering-shop.co.uk/)
or the typed notes from Carr's. This may be it:
http://www.railroomelectronics.co.uk/Catalogues/Product-82003.aspx (http://www.railroomelectronics.co.uk/Catalogues/Product-82003.aspx)
When I got my copy it was typed (on a typewriter, not wordprocessor). It's a booklet now by the looks of it.
My understanding is that it is to do with contamination of the solders that affects the joint as indeterminate alloys may be produces that may have undesirable properties such brittleness. I use a separate bit for whitemetal solder as (if I recall correctly) it was specifically mentioned as being susceptible.
Quote from: GraemeD on August 03, 2013, 11:43
<snipped>
I am surprised to hear of bits wearing out so quickly. Students are very hard on tools and despite being told to treat them with respect I'm sure some irons go on when power is turned on in the lab at start of day and off when the big red button is hit at the end of the day. Of course for electronic work they are not using acid flux but even so I'm not aware of going through a large number of bits.
I was once tempted to change the shape of a plated bit by filing it. Never again. Solder dissolves s the copper away and the bit rapidly becomes concave.
I use one of the brass "brillo pad" affairs rather than a damp sponge and a little pot of tip cleaner that has lasted me for years.
Another vote for the 'Tip tinner / cleaner'. I use a damp sponge myself, but given how they do not like (repeatedly) drying out, going very brittle when dry and somewhat slimey when rehydrated, that brass 'brillo' pad might be worth a try.
As to the
solder eating away at the copper of the filed tip I wonder if it is the phosphoric acid flux and that it is heated to boiling (in fact boils off the work) that does the real damage.
I'll also add that acidic flux residues can cause corrosion on kits so I always give finished builds (or at least get them to the stage before any steel and electrical components are added) a scrub up with Jif / Cif / other cream cleaner and an old toothbrush* over the sink with the plug in and the tap running. You put the plug in to catch any bits that were not soldered on properly rather than loose them down the drain.
(* you can use a new toothbrush, but it does taste wierd doing your teeth afterwards!)
In the vein of those mawkishly cute cartoons:
You know you are a modeller when....
you brush your teeth with an old toothbrush and buy a new one to clean your models. :laugh:
Solder does dissolve copper, a little, but enough to erode the tip. You used to get copper rich solder to combat this, don't know if you still can. I have not bought any solder since the new lead free came out.
Frank
My vote, as an adequate rather than skilled solderer, Antex 25xs
Widely available replacement bits, not too pricy , decent build
try Rapid Electronics www.rapidonline.com (usual disclaimers apply)
:)
Quote from: nigelk on September 07, 2013, 17:42
My vote, as an adequate rather than skilled solderer, Antex 25xs
Widely available replacement bits, not too pricy , decent build
try Rapid Electronics www.rapidonline.com (usual disclaimers apply)
:)
It's a good iron. I've been using my 15-18 watt equivalent since the late 1970s. The bit slides over the element meaning nearly all the heat ends up at the tip and not keeping the room warm. I managed to solder a Saltford Models Peckett with it, using a light dimmer type temperature controller. It was a struggle so I have a larger temperature controlled Antex now.
This iron is 50-60 W and it is quite possible that it doesn't supply that much more heat to the tip than the uncontrolled 25 W one, but it heats up and recovers temperature more quickly.