The Blaenau North baseboard/legs/fiddleyard/fascia works are all completed. It now remains to lay and wire track and do the scenery.
There will be no room on the baseboard itself for the control panel and I was thinking of making a detachable "box" with the panel on top of it. The box would be connected to the baseboard wiring by a D plug/choc block. It would either bolt or clip onto the baseboard side.
It needs to be detachable to fit in the car.
I'm struggling to think of what the box should be made out of or how it should be made.
The wiring will all be under the panel so the box is just there to protect it.
I don't think there is a Maplins product that will be big enough and was just wondering if anyone had come across any products that would suit - dimensions of about 1 foot long, 6 inches wide and say 3 to 4 inches deep.
Thank you again
Bob Berry
Hello Bob.
RS components used to offer aluminium boxes with a 4 screw lid of similar dimensions to what you have requested.
As I am now retired, I no longer have access to the RS catalogue but they are probably on line if Googled, there were many other configurations of boxes that would be suitable in the catalogue.
A quick look at the site on Google found this. There are many more but they are pricey.
IP65 Grey Lid Enclosure, 240x191x107mm
The 3D viewer requires the Java Runtime Environment (JRE) and for Java to be enabled on your system.
Enlarge IP65 Grey Lid Enclosure, 240x191x107mm IP65 Grey Lid Enclosure, 240x191x107mm
Image representative of range only
Price Each
Please log in to see latest prices Register / Log In
Qty Unit Price
1
Have you considered making the control panel integral with the layout? I only ask as having done it both ways, I would now always go for the integral approach. It is quicker to set up and has less margin for wiring problems.
Otherwise I'd say RS is a good bet.
John W
I make control boxes out of wooden presentation boxes, old cutlery boxes, or any suitable sized wooden box. I keep a look out for these and then keep any I can get (usualy for free) until needed.
Here is a small wine presentation box:
(https://forum.009society.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi663.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu358%2FM-e-l-l-o-w%2FRoys%25201970s%2520Layout%2F2012_0228RoysLayout0064.jpg&hash=fa3522c2f7ebb9023d82c4a6f9359a32dffcfc41)
That I made into a simple control box for a 1970
Thanks Gents,
Both of these approaches look really do-able and I really like the idea of recycling old boxes and the laminated track diagram.
Bob
Best reason for buying vintage wines that I have seen for a long time
Peter Smith
RS are on
http://uk.rs-online.com/web/
Rapid are on
http://www.rapidonline.com/
I use Rapid and am happy with the service they provide. I've also used RS, who do retail to individuals (or they used to...)
I tend to get all the switches and components I need from e-bay these days.
The SPDT centre off switches on the panel cost me about 80p each as opposed to about
Here's the control box for Angst-Lesspork
(https://forum.009society.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fhnorwood.co.uk%2Ffiles%2Fimages%2Fctrl2.jpg&hash=e08086628e8bab356ba554caddf383371fab876c)
It sits on a small de-mountable shelf at the rear of the layout. The transformers sit on a shelf below the layout, and the box has connectors for two hand-held controllers. As you can see, there's an illuminated mimic board that shows which track segments are live. It also shows which way the points are set.
It connects to the layout through four "D" series connectors. They can't be mis-connected as they are either different sizes or different gender. Here's a side-on photo
(https://forum.009society.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fhnorwood.co.uk%2Ffiles%2Fimages%2Fctrl3.jpg&hash=0e7b5aa552e335cf762d88293f2436a564e3a265)
I'd show you a photo of the inside of the box, but that might prove too exciting for people of a tender disposition! :)
Hugh,
Thanks for the info.
I fear my panel will be somewhat simpler than yours !
My knowledge of electronics is limited to say the least !
Bob B.
My word Hugh that looks a really neat job.
I particularly like the ergonomics. Looks like it should be easy to use, unlike so many which are just poorly labelled banks of switches!
Frank
Hugh,
Is a D connector what we use to join bits to the computer ?
If so I have tried them before but the soldering in such a tight space has always defeated me.
I know there is a choc block type of multiple connector that can be used - do you know of anything else that could be used ?
Thanks
Bob
Hi Bob,
Sorry to say that I have no problem soldering "D" connectors - I realise that's no help to you.
I have seen these same connectors with screw terminals on the inside.
You would be looking for larger size multipole connectors if you want to go down the soldering route. You could have a look at SCART connectors (used for video) they have 21 pins. I have just checked and it looks like you can get both plugs and sockets for cable-mounting
SCART plugs are the devils work and far harder to solder than a D pin because they seem to be made of very cheap plastic which melts at a lower temperature than solder so the pins just drop out or at best go wonky. Dreadful things. D pins are fiddly but at least built to a professional standard. I would advise persevering with the soldering. Lots of light and a magnifying glass on a stand with the plug firmly clamped.
John W
Thanks for the advice - I will try with the D plugs
B.
Bob,
You can get things called "headers" which are the sort of plugs they put on ribbon cable - a single line of pins at 0.1 inch spacing, various lengths, and corresponding sockets. As they are a single line they are easier to solder than D plugs and I think some may have screw terminals.
Go to the Farnell website (I think uk.farnell.com but google it if you can't find it) and put "header" into the search there or go to connectors then headers.
The only problem is that they are intended for use inside cabinets eg computers so don't have covers but you may be OK with this.
Frank
Quote from: Isle of Stoner on April 27, 2013, 18:45
SCART plugs are the devils work and far harder to solder than a D pin because they seem to be made of very cheap plastic which melts at a lower temperature than solder so the pins just drop out or at best go wonky. Dreadful things. D pins are fiddly but at least built to a professional standard. I would advise persevering with the soldering. Lots of light and a magnifying glass on a stand with the plug firmly clamped.
John W
I haven't had the pleasure of poking my soldering iron at a SCART connector, so that's useful to know. Thanks, John.
There used to be a wider range of multipole connectors about 30 years ago, before everything got euro-standard. Many of you will (probably) remember those little shops that sold ex-MoD and ex-GPO equipment. There were all sorts of multipole connectors in use then..
O Tempora, o mores!
Frank,
Thanks - I have found the website and am looking through it because I would like to try something other than D plugs
Bob
I'd be interested to see what you come up with because although I can solder a D plug I'd rather not.
My first real job out of skool was working in an electronics workshop and one of my jobs was making up test leads which were D plugs to DIN plugs. I think the Ds were 25 pin and the DINs, which were hellish, were 8 or 9 pin. I buggered a few of those up, I can tell you. However it did teach me to be quick and neat with the iron. I couldn't do it now as my eyes are much worse than when I was 19... some years ago now. 8)
John W
I did think first of suggesting DIN plugs, but then thought better of it. They are not designed for easy soldering.
Frank
John,
Harping back to a previous topic - your eyes might not be as good as they used to be but your legs are OK !
Bob
Frank,
I had to do some din plugs for the Gaugemaster walkabout controller - it was a few years ago though - would not want to do them again.
Bob
"D" series connectors, which are rated at 3amps, have quite large "cups" for taking the wire-end and solder. DIN connectors have much smaller "cups" and will not take larger wires (I use 16/02 for power on my layout; over-engineering, perhaps). DIN connectors, I have found, take 7/02 wires OK.
[the wire nomencalture for multi-strand cable the number of cores followed by the wire diameter, so 16/02 is sixteen cores of 0.02mm wire - I think it's mm]
There's a definite knack to soldering wire into any connector.
We used TYCO type connectors on Pitztalbahn and Westdorf.
Each connector is soldered to the wire before it is inserted into the connector block.
One half is designed to be clipped into a rectangular hole the other half can be used with leads. We made up a small metal plate that was then screwed to the woodwork on the layout or panel as required.
We have found over the years that these work well and provided the contacts are fully inserted into the plastic connector blocks they give years of trouble free service.
Here is an example of the 15 way type:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/140938481524
I they do 12, 9 and 6 way ones as well.
Brian Meldon
Ah yes! These are very similar to the conectors you find inside PCs. If I recall correctly, you can also crimp the wires into the receptacles if you don't feel up to soldering. (They are also rated at a much higher current than "D" connectors)
Molex make a very similar range of connectors.
Brian,
The Tyco connectors look very do-able . I'll buy some and see how I get on, they look a bit easier (= bigger) than the D cup ones.
Thanks
Bob B.
I can not find a link to it now but I think there is a special tool available to crimp the wires into the connectors rather than soldering them.
I managed to purchase a box of unused superb quality gold plated 25 way connectors including cable back boxes from a boot sale for next to nothing. These were used on Westdorf and the because we knew there would be a very large number of wires we purchased the crippling tool for these connectors. As it happened it came with a separate adapter for the TYCO connectors as well.It was not cheep though, I think it was about
I looked up the crimping tool but it was priced at
Brian
I'm well impressed with your 'simple' wine-box control panel. The diagram is so neat and easy to follow and much better than sticking bits of tape on.
Did you use some software to produce it?. Also what are the controllers you used in this unit? I have to agree with Peter Smith, what a brilliant excuse for buying a box of wine.
Cheers, Keith
Quote from: berryr99 on April 29, 2013, 17:16
I looked up the crimping tool but it was priced at
Quote from: kebo66 on May 01, 2013, 20:37
Brian
I'm well impressed with your 'simple' wine-box control panel. The diagram is so neat and easy to follow and much better than sticking bits of tape on.
Did you use some software to produce it?. Also what are the controllers you used in this unit? I have to agree with Peter Smith, what a brilliant excuse for buying a box of wine.
Cheers, Keith
Thanks Keith.
The entire idea of this layout is to keep things simple.
The outline track plan was drawn out by hand using a pencil, ruler and a compass. Including the section lines.
I then scanned it, made the lines darker and added the colour in-fill using photo editing software. (Paintshop pro 7).
But I suppose that last bit could have been done by hand as well.
I then cut it to size and laminated it.
I used the plan as a template to locate the switches. Each section switch is a SPDT with centre off.
The points on this layout are rod operated from switches on the back of layout.
Brian Meldon
I suppose one would have to bite the bullet and force oneself to drink the wine so that the box could be used.
Sort of a sacrifice for a higher principle !
Its a good idea. I don't drink these days but I will start going round a few car boot sales to see what there is in terms of wooden boxes.
I struggled with my last panel as regards doing the diagram ( I used paint and tape) but this idea is really good - I would never have thought of laminating it.
Bob B.