Dear All,
This is my first post in the forum since joining the 009 society a few weeks back.
I currently do not have a 009 layout but I have built a couple of locos to get me started.
Firstly a Peco James kit on a Farish Pannier chassis I had from a few years back. The kit went together well (low melt soldered) and I added a few small details, handrails etc before painting and lining by hand. I have also weathered the model although after looking at the photos I might do something with the rust around the chimney. I also have a Peco Jeanette in build, also on a farish Pannier chassis. I know inside cylindered locos are not normal for narrow gauge locos so I may change the chassis in the future but I wanted soemthing easy to get me goining and they do run well.
Secondly an A1 Models Kerr Stuart etched brass kit. A nice easy build with a few added details and a driver of course.
Hopefully the photos will come out OK.
Your feedback is welcome, along with any advice on which locos may be suitable to go with the Peco engines, similar size etc for a small light railway in the 1930's/40's.
regards
Paul
Here is the Kerr Stuart
Wow - that's some serious loco building, Paul. They look excellent!
Welcome to the forum Paul and to the 009 Society. You may be new to 009 but from looking at the standard of your modelling you certainly do not appear to be new to modelling. Congratulations on your excellent paint jobs.
Regarding your query, there are a number of small 009 loco kits that will complement James and Jeanette from the Chivers range (Now marketted as Five79) obtainable from Parkside Dundas (don't forget you can now qualify for an 009 Society members discount!). The challenge will be in sourcing suitable chassis as there are a number of very good little locos, such as a quarry Peckett and Bagnall that were designed for the Ibertren 0-4-0 which is nowadays only obtainable for a lot more money than they are actually worth. They can be made to fit the superior Fleischmann Piccolo 0-4-0 chassis which is slightly larger, but whether you want to hack kits about will depend upon your modelling confidence and experience. The RTR Roco 0-6-0T will be compatible with James and Jeanette in size terms and can also be fairly simply "anglicised" if you want to. Both this and the Egger no.5 (Blue) or Western (green) 0-4-0T are also usually quite common at affordable prices in Society sales. Then of course there is the good old Gem Varikit, also common secondhand. Older ones were made to fit the Arnold or Minitrix 0-6-0 chassis, not sure about the recommended chassis for the new ones (see the Varikit thread on this forum). Another source of locos that will go with James & Jeanette for size are the new design Minitrains Baldwin 0-4-0ST (Mixed reviews on this one) and "Koppel" 0-4-0T which is a vastly improved version of the old Egger No.2 (costs around
To add to Mick's reply I would like to say the Minitrains Baldwin won't fit, as it has a big chassis block. I would recommend the Fleischmann 0-4-0 which I fitted to a Jeanette kit without any problem:
(https://forum.009society.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.009dutch.nl%2Farchive%2F2012%2Fgallery44%2Fimages%2F200IMG_1404.jpg&hash=1004712d8ffe780a5c0503a01fe61c1780fd4d62)
That's a nicely built & painted/weathered couple of locos Paul - nice to see someone into soldering metal kits and not just glueing them. I purchased a job lot of Egger items and amongst the mix was a Peco Jeanette that was put together with Araldite - not a bad job but not as good as low melt solder.
Your A1 Kerr Stuart looks great - a shame I purchased a Meridian kit before the A1 kit came out otherwise I would have gone for one of these.
What's next on the build list besides the Peco Jeanette ?
Len
Yes as others have said nice work Paul.
As has been mentioned these days the availability of chassis can be a problem. In my opinion it is best to get the chassis first, or at the same time as the kit, or you will be stuck with a kit without a chassis.
The James and Janette kits are somewhat under scale for 00. They were at one time marketed by Peco as H0 scale but from what I was once told they were actually originally designed as 3mm scale TTn3 locos!
I would not recommend purchasing any of the original 1960
Dear All,
Thanks for positive comments. It's amazing how a closeup photo brings out all the bits you could have done better.
My previous experience has been in 00 gauge where I have built a few white metal and etched brass kits, all soldered, so at least I have a basic idea what to do. I have to say since buying a temperature controlled iron and an instructional video it is much better than glueing kits.
I do actually have a Golden Arrow kit for a Southwold Sharpie ready to build which hopefully won't look too out of place next to the Peco engines. This is designed for a modified Farish Prairie chassis which I have left over from my brief foray into N gauge many years ago. I also quite fancy an armoured Simplex loco to go with the Kerr Stuart.
Regarding the issue of a suitable chassis, has anyone any experience of those from N Drive Productions?
Thanks again for your help and support.
Paul
Ndrive chassis are excellent-if you can get one.They are out of production for the timebeing due to the indisposition of the proprietor. I have had one on order for 15 months. Its a shame as I have a few projects where I need this type of chassis
Peter Smith
The N-drive chassis are indeed very good. They do however have a couple of things that you will need to know.
Firstly they are not direct replacements for the Ibertren or Bachmann 0-4-0
Following a time spent searching the web for inspiration I have decided an inside cylindered narrow gauge loco would just not be right so I have decided to convert both James and Jeanette to outside cylinders using parts from RT models (outside cylinders and single slide bars). Not sure how easy this will be as space is a little tight ahead of the front drivers but I have ordered the parts and I will post the results. My main concern is how to get the centre crankpin out without damaging the drivers (advice here is well appreciated).
Rolling stock (mainly Parkside Dundas) is coming along well, I have also ordered an amoured simplex kit (Meridian Models). Finally, I have plans for a first layout which more of in due course.
Regards
Paul
A quick note of caution Paul - the RT Models cylinder set is designed to fit the new style Farish 08 that has the outside frames, and uses a replacement cast resin kepper plate that includes a 'stretcher' to fit the cylinders on to. I don't think the RT models kepper plate will fit the old style inside frame 08 chassis (same as the J94 saddle tank chassis), but it should be possible to use the cylinder castings and conecting rod from RT Models, either with the stretcher cut from the RT resin keeper plate or something cobbled together with styrene to mount the cylinders on.
Cobbled together with styrene or brass offcuts is the plan depending on how the cylinders sit on the loco. A bit of kit bashing is always good fun.
Paul
Quote from: PUASHP on January 06, 2013, 19:40
<snipped>A bit of kit bashing is always good fun.
Paul
Too true!
Dear All,
Just completed modification to the Farish 57xx chassis fitting outside cylinders. I have now fitted the chassis to the Peco Jeanette (see photo).
Key steps were as follows using RT models parts:
Strip down chassis and remove wheels.
Cut chassis block to give space for cylinders (I used a mini cutting disc)
Drill out crankpin on centre driver and remake from 1.5mm brass rod. Fix with sperglue.
File down cylinder castings to fit chassis/body and fix with epoxy resin glue.
Fit connecting rod with 1 mm spacer between it and the coupling rod. The assembly is held on by a small soldered washer on the outside.
Remake RH rod from scratch after I lost it somewhere on the floor!
Make crosshead assembly as per kit instructions (this was the hardest part of the conversion) and solder up to pin.
Fit slide bar assembly, suitably cut down in size to fit making sure there was sufficient clearance over the front drivers.
Fit cylinder cover and test (shock horror it ran first time)
All that remains now is some detailing on the body and painting. I'm sure the second chassis conversion for the Peco James will be easier.
Paul
Here is the photo of the chassis without the body showing the slide bar arrangement clearly
Paul
That's a very neat piece of work, Paul. Fitting connecting rods and crossheads to an existing chassis takes some care to prevent binding.
My only comment is that the cylinders are positioned slightly out of line with the outside steam pipes and the smokebox. But you couldn't have done much else given the position of the front wheels, and in the assembled locomotive it doesn't show too much. It's a good compromise - the loco looks nicely balanced from most angles.
I keep thinking that this would make a nice 2-4-0 if someone could replace the front coupled wheels with small diameter carrying wheels. But that would need some careful balancing of the whitemetal body to keep the weight on the rear wheels.
I know what you mean about the steam pipes but the problem was clearance over the front crankpins. If you look closely they don't line up with the chimney either so it's probably the steam pipes in the wrong place, however I shan't move them now the kit is complete.
I have now added some detail including coal rails, injector top feed and steps for the driver.
Next up is painting which I shall probably do by hand followed by a sprayed coat of satin varnish to keep the paint safe.
I shall then add driver figure, coal, lamp, nameplates and a bit of weathering.
Completed picture to follow when complete.
Regards
Paul
No, I didn't mean you should move them - I'd leave them as they are if I were doing this myself, and it's your loco! It's coming along very well with all the detail. The bunker is very nice with those coal rails. It's a good touch I haven't yet seen on a Jeanette.
Hi Paul
I am a total newbie (at the age of 61) to any form of loco construction but I am working on a couple of Chris Ward 3d printed growler locos
I have to say the last batch of photos look really good.
Would I be right to think the coal rails are brass wire and plate that you have formed into the required shape ?
Also the handrails - I'm assuming this is brass wire that you have formed with maybe a pair of pliers ?
I wouldn't mind knowing because I am stuck at this point on my own build
Thanks
Bob
Equally: how thick is the wire that you used for the handrails? Tx.
Bob
The handrails, coal rails and top feed pipework are all from 0.5mm straight brass wire.
All I do is drill some holes (0.6mm) with a pin vice, bend the wire with some pliers and superglue it in. Drop a bit of superglue on a piece of card and then apply at the back of the handrail (ie inside the cab) with the end of a coctail stick. The alternative method is to use Alan Gibson short handrail knobs with the 0.5mm wire soldered to them and trimmed to length however threading them onto the wire can be difficult and it depends how good you are with a soldering iron.
The coal rails are 0.5mm brass wire soldered to an offcut of brass from the scrap box, with the assembly superglued to the rear bunker. The top feed is a 4mm handrail knob with the wire soldered into it, drilled and superglued into the top of the boiler.
Paul
Paul
Thanks for the information - I will try this method
Bob
Quote from: PUASHP on January 12, 2013, 20:45
The handrails... ...from 0.5mm straight brass wire.
Tx muchly!
Fitting cylinders to the chassis has improved the look of the loco no end! Have you considered doing an article on it for 009 News? I'm sure that all the members who are not members of this forum would be interested in the conversion.
I second that! Would be very useful
I have a second loco to convert (Peco James) and I would be happy to write an article with some photos for the 009 NEWS, although another member has recently written in using a Farish 08 chassis and 4P cylinders.
It's encouraging that others are taking an interest and maybe can learn from my experience (and avoid the mistakes I made along the way).
Paul
Quote from: PUASHP on January 16, 2013, 20:02
I have a second loco to convert (Peco James) and I would be happy to write an article with some photos for the 009 NEWS, although another member has recently written in using a Farish 08 chassis and 4P cylinders.
It's encouraging that others are taking an interest and maybe can learn from my experience (and avoid the mistakes I made along the way).
Paul
Please write the article as it is always useful to have more than one way to do something, and not everyone will have some Farish 4P cylinders to use...
Another update.
Almost finished painting the Peco Jeanette today so I thought I would post a photo (sorry for the poor quality).
All painting has been done by hand using brushes, including the lining. I'm sure once the loco has been weathered the imperfections will become less obvious. I still have the buffer beams to paint, nameplates to add, coal, driver figure and lamps.
Paul
I think that is the nicest 'Jeanette' I've seen. (Except my wife , of course)
Really impressed with the paint job.
John W
yes I agree. With the benefit of hindsight it would not have been too difficult to extend the boiler to get the chimney , steam pipes and cylinders in line. This is not criticism just observation
Peter Smith
Inside steam pipes and an extended D shaped smokebox would have sorted things however I completed the body before I decided to fit the outside cylinders.
P.S. It was thanks to comments on this forum that I went for the outside cylinders, it certainly gives a nice feel to the loco. I shall convert the Peco James soon also.
Regards
Paul